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    Would this Maverick mod work?

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    Kythras

    Posts : 8
    Join date : 2012-08-04
    Age : 26
    Location : Sydney

    Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  Kythras on Sat Aug 04, 2012 6:10 pm

    Hey all, I'm pretty (read: very) new to the world of modding and nerf, still waiting on my first components and blaster. But I was thinking of picking up a cheap Maverick and having a bit of a tinker in the mean time. The obvious beginners mods are AR removal, installing a post-market spring, penny-mod, Russian roulette, all that stuff. But I've heard that the AR removal can make Mavericks prone to jamming, not to mention that I'd like my Maverick to perform at peak while using streamlines (which my primary blaster, and all of my mate's blasters will be using). While I'm sure that this is not an original idea, my thought was, inspired by the Angel/Brass breach mods performed on other blasters, to clad the inside of the Maverick's chambers with brass tubing fitted to fire streamlines. Obviously this would eliminate its ability to fire whistlers, taggers, sonic micros, etc. (something I can easily live with), but would (hypothetically) increase its ability to handle streamlines exponentially.

    Has anyone else experimented with this before? If so, what have their results been? If not, what do the wiser, more experienced modding minds make of this idea?

    Cheers!


    Last edited by Kythras on Sun Aug 05, 2012 3:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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    Kaine

    Posts : 75
    Join date : 2012-01-19
    Age : 29
    Location : QLD, Murphys Creek.

    Re: Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  Kaine on Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:21 pm

    It could be worth a shot, but I would point out a few things.

    1. You will need to do a spring upgrade as well as fiddle around with one of the many ways of increasing the seal between the back of the turret and the plunger tube.

    2. I don't see you getting a significant improvement on range out of it. I singled a Whiteout Mav with a BT spring in it and only noticed an increase of a few feet, though admittedly that was still designed to fire whistlers. So really the message is; you probably won't get out of it, what you put into it.

    As an idea/experiment, you could get a length of brass take out the turret (or Russian roulette it and drop it out) put the pipe in place (blutac would work as a place holder) and see how well it works.
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    littlebro05
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    Join date : 2009-07-07
    Age : 25
    Location : Brisbane Boi!

    Re: Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  littlebro05 on Sun Aug 05, 2012 12:15 am

    Or you could wait until the Elite StrongArm comes out. If it does.

    From experience with Mavericks, I wouldn't really bother because there's a few flaws with the maverick which makes it a pain in backside to modify. The main concern is the air flow between the plunger to the barrel. If you look between most mavericks, you will notice there is a 'small' air gap which prevents the blaster from shooting to it's full potential. When you do modify a maverick right you can it up to 60ft.

    You should probably rename the title 'Will this mod work on a maverick'. The title of the topic really attracts people into clicking on the title. I think alot of people will just think 'Oh, it's just another kid asking a silly question'.
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    Kythras

    Posts : 8
    Join date : 2012-08-04
    Age : 26
    Location : Sydney

    Re: Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  Kythras on Sun Aug 05, 2012 3:47 am

    Thanks for the responses. What about a Spectre? I really like the design of the gun, and I understand the seal between plunger and barrel is much better than that of the Maverick, which would allow it to take better advantage of a mod like this.
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    mister_elliott

    Posts : 327
    Join date : 2011-05-10
    Age : 28
    Location : Ipswich, QLD

    Re: Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  mister_elliott on Sun Aug 05, 2012 9:30 am

    I tried PETG in a spectre and noted a small decrease in range, the barrels were too long I think. Waste of a very pretty blaster which I haven't seen in stores again for a not shit price. Better off overhauling the mav with usual methods, then just use whistlers or suckers.

    What Thanh said is also very true of mavs in particular, bloody AWFUL turret seal. They don't put out much air to begin with and the biggest range loss is due to lost air.
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    FrostCheif

    Posts : 69
    Join date : 2012-03-10
    Age : 21
    Location : Brisbane

    Re: Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  FrostCheif on Sun Aug 05, 2012 2:38 pm

    If you have seen the swarmfire, you will know that there is a light foam surface that seals the turret to the direct plunger. the foam is less than 1mm thick, and helps to improve the seal. you could try that, although if you do, you will have to restrict the rotating mechanism to get a full turn with the extra friction

    Lt. Jourdi la Forge

    Posts : 16
    Join date : 2012-10-31
    Age : 21
    Location : Mildura, VIC

    Re: Would this Maverick mod work?

    Post  Lt. Jourdi la Forge on Sat Nov 17, 2012 9:50 am

    Hey i have modded 3 mavs, so i think i would know a bit about them. The first one i f****d up with paint, the second i did a mod wrong and it doesnt work, and my third one... well, i took it apart, looked at it, said to myself 'what happened to the other ones?' then just put it back together with NO MODS AT ALL and now it workd better than before. Still ont very powerful, but not a bad inside blaster.

    speirk

    Posts : 4
    Join date : 2013-01-07
    Age : 32
    Location : Adelaide Hills, South Australia

    Yes, but...

    Post  speirk on Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:12 am

    G'Day, I know this thread is a little old, but...

    I can fire streamlines from my Maverick: I found that the dart to turret seal is what seams to make or break it. If you almost bend your streamline with insertion force, then it will go a little further into the turret than the whistlers that come with the gun. Because the barrels in the turret taper ever so slightly, there is a point where you can insert streamlines and have them seal.

    As for performance mods...without buying anything I did not already have on hand, my recommendation is:

    - Longshot Front Gun Spring -- same length and fits perfectly (room to move without interfering with Maverick spring coils) inside the stock spring.

    - 5x 5c pieces behind the spring: Will also require sanding/cutting some of the spring seat. Stock length is around 18mm -- mine is now 8mm because I wanted SOME support for the springs.

    - ONLY REMOVE THE AIR RESTRICTORS AND THEIR SPRINGS: I have tested one Maverick with a different setup per barrel and found the best combo was to carefully remove the air restrictor parts and nothing else. The worst performance came when I tried to 'port' or open up the holes in the back of the barrel, and I noticed no gain by punching out the centre of the air restrictor -- Mavericks only move a small amount of air, and the smaller and smaller holes that the air travels through creates something I haven't seen mentioned yet on modding sites -- reversion, where some of the air is forced back along the path it came from and creates a spike of pressure as it moves. The smaller holes also increase the pressure by slowing down the air speed -- something that needs to have a perfect balance with a NERF gun because the darts require air-speed in order to still be accelerating at the end of the barrel, but also require pressure for a good, solid acceleration that will break the seal of the dart with the barrel or dart post.

    - Place an O-ring on the very small output tube of the plunger. This will increase your plunger to turret seal, and not interfere with the turrets rotation. The O-ring that works best is approx 7mm diameter and approx 1mm thick. It should perfectly cover the plunger output tube without getting in the way of anything.

    These few mods will get you a noticeable gain in range and dart speed, but with the Maverick, the only real way to make it competitive in power/range with another reverse-plunger blaster is to make a really tight seal (so it is reasonably stiff to move by hand) and install a killer main spring, strong catch spring, re-inforce the trigger catch on the plunger tube, re-inforce the trigger catch itself, and re-inforce the priming bar that allows the priming slide to move the plunger tube. If you can get that 16cc of displaced air to have nowhere to go except down the barrel, and get it done in significantly less time than the stock configuration, then you may be able to get something that stings...

    Hopefully I haven't confused things too much, and Good Luck!


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