Oz Nerf - Australian Nerf Community

Would you like to react to this message? Create an account in a few clicks or log in to continue.
Oz Nerf - Australian Nerf Community

Nerfing down under!. Oz Nerf - Australian Nerf Community

If you're new to the forums please do the following.
1. Read the Forum Rules before posting!
2. Update your location, age and avatar TRUTHFULLY
3. Introduce yourself in the Welcome to Oznerf forum section =)

Navigation

Statistics

Our users have posted a total of 52416 messages in 3425 subjects

We have 1922 registered users

The newest registered user is seabulb

Latest topics

» gold coast nerf war?
by ShaGGz LMS Fri Oct 07, 2016 3:49 pm

» nerf clearout
by Runeblade Wed Sep 07, 2016 7:03 am

» How to replace the Longshot trigger plate?
by neon64bit Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:42 am

» Mid North Coast/Hunter War Organisation
by Vampros Thu Dec 31, 2015 6:18 pm

» WTB felt for slugs
by Richo123 Sat Oct 24, 2015 6:21 am

March 2024

MonTueWedThuFriSatSun
    123
45678910
11121314151617
18192021222324
25262728293031

Calendar Calendar


3 posters

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    clunk07
    clunk07
    Administrator
    Administrator


    Posts : 2953
    Join date : 2011-02-02
    Age : 44
    Location : Blackwater, Queensland

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Empty CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    Post  clunk07 Sat Dec 15, 2012 7:27 am

    Hi guys,

    Had 2 Stryfe's arrive from Amazon yesterday. Nice little sidearm, even for a flywheel. Fairly straightforward to mod, and rather rewarding.

    Mod's covered -

    * Lock removals
    * Motor resistor removal
    * Complete re-wire
    * Voltage increase
    * Installation of clicky switch

    Tools:

    •Basic tool kit

    •Soldering iron

    •Hot glue gun

    •Digital Multimeter


    Materials:

    •Electrical Hook-up wire

    •Unprotected 14500 li-ion batteries

    •AA dummy spacer

    •Forward Clicky switch

    •Hot glue sticks, solder, heatshrink tubing etc


    As always, start by opening up your blaster. There's no hidden screws, so this should be simple.
    This is what you should see:

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2410

    Close-up of internals:

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2411

    First off, we'll remove the magazine lock. This enables the trigger to be pulled at any time, whether there's a clip loaded or not. Remove the screw for the lower connecting rod of the dart pusher, and the screw which holds the trigger in. Push the connecting rod out of the way, and remove the trigger. Now you have access to the mechanical trigger lock. Remove the two screws and the cover plate, and discard the two orange pieces and the spring.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2412

    Next we'll remove the mechanical lock for the trigger. Probably not a necessary mod if you don't plan on replacing the stock interlock switch. Remove the screw from the cover plate, and discard the orange piece.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2413

    Now on to the dart lock removal. Removing this component allows you to pull the trigger even if a dart isn't loaded in to the clip. Simply remove the orange piece and spring, and you're done.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2414

    For this next step, I removed all the wiring and interlocks from the blaster, as well as the circuit board connected to the inside of the battery tray. I also cut the positive and negative wires from the battery terminals, and removed all solder. On that note, I removed all the factory solder from everything in this blaster. It's a bit pedantic, but at least I know there's quality solder joints on all my connections.
    Remove the flywheel motor assembly, and turn over. You'll notice 4 resistors between the motors. Cut these resistor's out, and replace with wire (I just used some heavy duty LED tails). Obviously, take note of which is negative and positive prior to removing. Then, simply solder your hook-up wire to the two bridges.

    BEFORE:

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2415

    AFTER:

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2416

    There's plenty of room to mount the clicky switch behind the acceleration trigger. I had to trim a minimal amount of plastic out for it to fit, and then secured in place with hot glue.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2417

    Wiring is pretty simple. Negative from battery terminal to motor. Positive from battery terminal to one side of the clicky switch, and then another positive wire from the other side of the switch to the motors to complete the circuit. I added a little heatshrink around the connections on the switch just to play it safe.
    You'll also note that I cut the orange cover for the acceleration trigger interlock, so it would fit around the switch. Just made it look a little neater, and gave me some material to add a bit more hot glue to secure the switch in place so it won't move.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2418

    All internal components replaced.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2419

    These are all the pieces that I removed.

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Dsc_2420

    Add your preferred power supply, and check that everything works before closing up the blaster for testing.

    I opted to use 3 x unprotected 14500 li-ion batt's, along with a AA dummy spacer. I've heard a few reports of burnt motors from 16.8 v, and running at 12.6 v hasn't caused me any issues so far - no burnt smell or thermal overload as of yet. Personally, with all the circuitry and resistors removed, running above 12.6 v will probably cause a major meltdown...

    As a side-note, I added a small machine screw to the front of the dart pusher so it's compatible with stinger's. This isn't necessary with heavy sili tips or stock darts.

    So, on to ranges. Firing flat (with a slight 5 degree elevation), I used 4 x 18rd Stampede clips, loaded with Elite darts, and 3 different weighted Stinger darts (0.8g, 1.0g, 1.2g). Longest distance was from a couple of elite darts which fishtailed madly. Shortest distance was from the heavier stingers. The most consistent range was from the 1.0g stinger darts, at approx 66 ft.

    Min 51ft
    Max 89ft
    Avg 70ft
    Mode 66ft

    Cheers,

    MercilessRezno
    MercilessRezno


    Posts : 22
    Join date : 2012-06-13
    Age : 24
    Location : Melbourne

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Empty Re: CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    Post  MercilessRezno Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:12 am

    Great tutorial, but where can I find a clicky switch to install?

    Cheers'
    TOM
    clunk07
    clunk07
    Administrator
    Administrator


    Posts : 2953
    Join date : 2011-02-02
    Age : 44
    Location : Blackwater, Queensland

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Empty Re: CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    Post  clunk07 Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:44 am

    Thanks Tom.

    Clicky switches are primarily used in torches. You'll find them cheaply and easily enough on ebay.

    Cheers,
    Jeo
    Jeo


    Posts : 462
    Join date : 2011-01-27
    Age : 36
    Location : Canberra

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Empty Re: CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    Post  Jeo Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:56 am

    Nicely done Clunk. I love the write up style.
    clunk07
    clunk07
    Administrator
    Administrator


    Posts : 2953
    Join date : 2011-02-02
    Age : 44
    Location : Blackwater, Queensland

    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Empty Re: CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    Post  clunk07 Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:45 am

    Thanks mate,

    It's nothing fancy, but delivers the information required. Has worked well for me so far, and having a decent camera makes a massive difference.

    Cheers,

    Sponsored content


    CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy) Empty Re: CWC - Stryfe Modification (Picture Heavy)

    Post  Sponsored content


      Current date/time is Thu Mar 28, 2024 11:51 am