LongBUMB

This is a little more of a pictorial write up as my time is currently limited (and I still have blasters to make/repair for the next Brisy war)



OK what we are making here is a longshot with BBUMB internals, a more efficient pump, clip feed breech and totally stock looks (I mean it could almost pass as stock)

Range is.....well I don't know but it will fire a stinger through two sides of a Nerf box at 10m and hit the shed wall in pieces. Lets just say shoots far.

Tools/Materials
Dremel
Hacksaw
Hot glue gun
Epoxy
PETG
20mm electrical orange (underground) conduit
Hose clamps
Bike pump

This is where the pictures will need to speak for them selves a little. The BBUMB is disassembled and the pump handle removed. I then cut down the pump body to within 15mm of the one way valve at the end of it (the black thing when you look down the tube)




The plastic thing I used to cap the pump tube was the pump piston head. This was set in with epoxy (Megapoxy brand, cheap commercial epoxy).
The tube separating the pump and the release valve (the bulbous thing) was cut down and also set with epoxy.
A 20mm coupler was epoxied to the release valve which then connects the breech. The hose I used is 5mm pressure hose because thats what I had laying around.



The breech I won't go into detail on as it's consistent with many other mods like the mega raider, however here are some pictures examine if you want to see. Sorry they are a little blurred.



This was built in approx. 6hrs and cost $90 inc the cost of a longshot and a BBUMB, cheaper if you have a broken blaster to start with. I've never built a air powered blaster before so please forgive any oversights. Most of the time in the build is in just getting it right in your head first.

Hope this helps

so how does it operate? (breech wise)

The PETG slides with in the 20mm conduit. Forward to open the breech and back to close, very simple. You could use brass or something else if you wanted, but this was cheap, quick and easy.

mate,

Do you have a better pic of the piston/trigger actuator. That looks ghetto-tastic!!

nice job mate! Could you get a close up pic of how you secured the bolt to the breech?

So your airtank is the bulb mostest at the back?

What Ghetto!! Well I did get the idea from ghetto Goonie's longtit.

The trigger is just some 1.2mm metal strap made to fit. I'm not happy with it as it flexes and will change to a lever action trigger soon as I have time off from repairing the regular war arsenal lol.

haha

I just bought 4 LS's, and a BBUMB yesterday. This is fate!!

Looks like I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

clunk07 wrote:haha

I just bought 4 LS's, and a BBUMB yesterday. This is fate!!

Looks like I know what I'm doing tomorrow.

Just come up with a better trigger my method is flawed. A lever would be the better option run back to the pin that hold the prime indicator.

Hey, this is awesome, but could you give a bit more info or pictures regarding how you used the priming handle in the front part of the gun, connecting it to the PETG?

Switchblade wrote:nice job mate! Could you get a close up pic of how you secured the bolt to the breech?

So your airtank is the bulb mostest at the back?

No, contrary to MIG and others I used the release valve as the tank it seems to work well but these guys probably know more about it than me. I've only tested it in the shed and it just shreds the darts on impact, when fired out the roller door the dart hit the house across the road. Needless to say I cowered and then pulled the door down but that was probably 40m +.

The Breech is just PETG sliding in 20mm orange (underground) conduit. The conduit is cut to accept the clip and the PETG slides in and captures the dart, it really is that simple

2120 wrote:Hey, this is awesome, but could you give a bit more info or pictures regarding how you used the priming handle in the front part of the gun, connecting it to the PETG?

OK this picture shows the priming handle secured between two hose clamps filled with hot glue. Be careful as the hot glue can melt/deform the PETG. If you refer back to the first post the picture shows there is enough space between the breech and the false barrel (the two orange pieces of conduit) for the priming handle (bolt) to open the breech and then return the breech closed.

Hey Lefty,

Do you think it would be possible to glue some conduit around the petg, and mount the hose-clamps to it. Just to avoid the possiblity of damaging the petg?

clunk07 wrote:Hey Lefty,

Do you think it would be possible to glue some conduit around the petg, and mount the hose-clamps to it. Just to avoid the possiblity of damaging the petg?

Sure, but it's the heat of the hot glue you need to be aware of. I applied some hot glue to my TS barrels and the initial flow was too hot and deformed the first PETG barrel causing me some real headaches. I had no problems in this case as I used the glue as soon as it heated and was viscus. The clamps are tight but the glue holds the arrangement together.

Edit. There may be alot of extra shell grinding involved your suggested method.

Yeh, good point about the extra shell mod to accommodate the larger diameter.

I've decided to put this off until I clear the backlog of order's I've got so far, but it does look like a very nice project!!

I'm making another 4 modded LS's for sale, and have some AT's and Mav's to mod. I'm hoping to use the Mav's and AT's to start up my local nerf community.

Anyway, it's a really nice looking blaster mate. I can't wait to try and build it.

Rather than just hotgluing the bolt around the petg, why dont you cut a little bit of the faux barrel that's supposed to be there, superglue it around the petg, then do the hose clamp/hotglue thing for the bolt around the faux barrel.
That would do the same thing as the conduit idea, but no extra shell destruction would be required.

All these ideas will work it's just a case of what works best for you at the time. The hot glue works well, lets face it it's been used to fit PETG barrels forever, I just wanted warn modders of the potential danger associated with it (or it could just be my gun runs to hot).