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    The Questions Thread.

    CaptainSurprise
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    Post  CaptainSurprise Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:08 am


    Um, it really depends on the condition, if there are any modifications, who your buyer is. There isn't really a definitive answer to that question, but the Stampede would go for more than the Longstrike.


    Last edited by CaptainSurprise on Mon Jun 13, 2011 1:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
    mister_elliott
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    Post  mister_elliott Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:16 am

    TomaszBurcon wrote:how much do 2nd stampedes or longstrikes go for ???

    I picked up a perfect condition complete stampede (minus the box) for $45 on saturday including ad fees. Seems about right.

    You don't want a longstrike.
    TomaszBurcon
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    Post  TomaszBurcon Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:57 am

    mister_elliott wrote:
    TomaszBurcon wrote:how much do 2nd stampedes or longstrikes go for ???

    I picked up a perfect condition complete stampede (minus the box) for $45 on saturday including ad fees. Seems about right.

    You don't want a longstrike.

    whats wrong with the longstrike ??
    Swatsonia
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    Post  Swatsonia Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:11 am

    Its to do with the internals. The longstrike uses a reverse plunger system, which does not put out the same amount of air that a direct plunger can.

    If you don't mod, however, there is no problem with it, unless you get one of the dodgy ones.

    Prices depend on the seller. Stampedes without clips, etc normally go for around $30ish, no clue about longstrikes.
    cyraxis
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    Post  cyraxis Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:27 am

    Any recommendations on brass barrel lubricants? Searching has found plenty on stuff for the plunger and o-ring safe lubes but haven't found much for the barrel. I've a can of Inox spray, is it safe?
    Swatsonia
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    Post  Swatsonia Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:39 am

    Wait, do you want to lube the inside of the brass barrel? As far as I know, brass barrels only need to be polished to be effective. Lubing the inside would only get it onto your darts, which wouldn't yield any benefit.
    cyraxis
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    Post  cyraxis Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:49 am

    Cool, dodged a bullet there. So polish the inside instead with Brasso?
    Swatsonia
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    Post  Swatsonia Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:03 am

    Yep. This allows for reduced friction and keeps your darts clean.

    I seem to remember using brasso to clean my cornet at some point as well
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    Post  TomaszBurcon Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:16 am

    ok cool so how much do stampedes with clips go for ???
    and i have a maverick and i have done Russian rulet mod to it
    and now it wont line up the the air tank thingy and doesn't shoot.
    what i have i done wrong ?
    redcricket077
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    Post  redcricket077 Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:30 am

    TomaszBurcon wrote:ok cool so how much do stampedes with clips go for ???
    and i have a maverick and i have done Russian rulet mod to it
    and now it wont line up the the air tank thingy and doesn't shoot.
    what i have i done wrong ?

    The maverick, pictures would help a lot. There is a small slot where the mouth of the plunger tube sits. That's the small cylinder-like thing. Stampede is worth $25 and each extended clip is worth around $14-16
    Silent Scope
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    Post  Silent Scope Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:47 am

    TomaszBurcon wrote:how much do 2nd stampedes or longstrikes go for ???

    TomaszBurcon wrote:
    mister_elliott wrote:
    TomaszBurcon wrote:how much do 2nd stampedes or longstrikes go for ???

    I picked up a perfect condition complete stampede (minus the box) for $45 on saturday including ad fees. Seems about right.

    You don't want a longstrike.

    whats wrong with the longstrike ??

    TomaszBurcon wrote:ok cool so how much do stampedes with clips go for ???
    and i have a maverick and i have done Russian rulet mod to it
    and now it wont line up the the air tank thingy and doesn't shoot.
    what i have i done wrong ?
    Fix your post quality from now on before I start taking further administrative action.

    It would help for you to read the rules. Check my signature for the ruleset.


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    Xoenz
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    Post  Xoenz Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:31 am

    TomaszBurcon wrote:ok cool so how much do stampedes with clips go for ???
    and i have a maverick and i have done Russian rulet mod to it
    and now it wont line up the the air tank thingy and doesn't shoot.
    what i have i done wrong ?

    Have a look here, and see if your maverick matches it.

    http://www.oznerf.com/t3196-maverick-internals
    clunk07
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    Post  clunk07 Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:48 pm

    Just use Brasso or even Silvo to polish the inside of your brass tubing.

    Cheers,
    RL
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    Post  RL Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:36 am

    I'm a new owner of a (second hand) Barricade, paradoxically enough.

    Anyway - is it a common thing for it to experience some sort of jamming issues when you click the trigger a bit too fast? I'm just wondering whether I need to fix it up a bit more or if that's just me being a bit too trigger happy.
    yeahryan
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    Post  yeahryan Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:46 am

    2120 wrote:I'm a new owner of a (second hand) Barricade, paradoxically enough.

    Anyway - is it a common thing for it to experience some sort of jamming issues when you click the trigger a bit too fast? I'm just wondering whether I need to fix it up a bit more or if that's just me being a bit too trigger happy.

    Its happened a couple of times to me. That and my on/off switch will sometimes get stuck in the on position.
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    The Questions Thread. Empty FFP Shield

    Post  Pronga Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:54 am

    Two part question:

    I'm in the process of designing and building a FFP/FFL shield, so was wondering what, if any, restrictions there are?

    The plan so far is to make it aprox. my hight and width, but when deployed twice as wide (to hide 2 people) I also am considering putting a window(?) made of fly-wire or perspex in it so I can see where I'm running.

    Would this be within the rules? Or would that count as "perforations"?

    Is having "deployed" acceptable, so effectively mobile cover?


    Last edited by Pronga on Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:59 am; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : added 2nd part/puntucation)
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    Post  mull Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:59 am

    2120 wrote:I'm a new owner of a (second hand) Barricade, paradoxically enough.

    Anyway - is it a common thing for it to experience some sort of jamming issues when you click the trigger a bit too fast? I'm just wondering whether I need to fix it up a bit more or if that's just me being a bit too trigger happy.
    This generally happens if your dart happens to be just a few millimetres short (old or slight manufacturing variation).

    If you pull the trigger hard and fast, there's a bit of momentum to kick the dart into the flywheels and launched.
    Or that the pusher rod is fully extended to do so.
    I've noticed that if I just pull the trigger slowly into position, there's just maybe a millimeter or so that could go further forward.

    However, if you tap the trigger too fast, the slightly short dart may not be able to connect with the flywheels, so it stays halfway out the cylinder and resulting in a jam.
    Xoenz
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    Post  Xoenz Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:59 am

    2120 wrote:I'm a new owner of a (second hand) Barricade, paradoxically enough.

    Anyway - is it a common thing for it to experience some sort of jamming issues when you click the trigger a bit too fast? I'm just wondering whether I need to fix it up a bit more or if that's just me being a bit too trigger happy.

    Happens to all of them.

    If you don't pull the trigger all the way, it will jam.
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    Post  gooni Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:14 am

    Pronga wrote:

    The plan so far is to make it aprox. my hight and width, but when deployed twice as wide (to hide 2 people) I also am considering putting a window(?) made of fly-wire or perspex in it so I can see where I'm running.

    The idea of the shield is to shield you, and isn't something that would be deployed but carried with you at all times. People can cover behind you but you "the tank" must be holding the shield.

    There is no size limit on the shield so making it as tall and as wide as yourself is fine, and even a bit wider if you like.

    I wouldn't suggest using flyscreen as a sharpie with great aim would out a hole right through it. polycarb would be the best thing to use for the window.

    Gooni.
    Pronga
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    Post  Pronga Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:37 am

    gooni wrote:

    People can cover behind you but you "the tank" must be holding the shield.


    So to confirm, The shield is effectively part of me, hence holding it all the time.

    Is that a firm rule? (As in I can't put it down to reload) Or a 'spirit of the game, don't be a douche, guideline'?
    Xoenz
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    Post  Xoenz Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:57 am

    3rd Alpha Trooper that I have screwed up. Hopefully I can learn something this time..

    So, my problem is that I can NOT prime the AT back. It's hitting a lock or some crap.

    It was firing great before (AR out, Re-lubed) and i opened it up to reinforced and pad it.

    I've checked that its aligned properly, and by my view, it is..

    Help is VERY MUCH appreciated, Thanks!

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    Swatsonia
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    Post  Swatsonia Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:04 am

    I had the same problem. Its the lock above the magwell lock, with the washer and screw. Resetting the internals fixed mine quite nicely.
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    Post  Echoes Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:07 am

    I had a similar problem.

    There are two silver screw/washerscrew things. The left-most one is holding a lock in place. Notice how that lock gets in the way of your boltsled. What's happening is that one of the nubs on your plunger tube isn't reaching that lock to push it down so that your boltsled can move.

    In short: Your padding is too thick. Squish it down or remove it alltogether.

    Edit: An alternative fix is to manually push your Plungertube down after your shots until that problem goes away. This would require you to remove/cut off part of the black plungertube cover. You would only have to do this a couple of times before the padding gets squashed down enough.

    Edit edit: It also looks like you've tried to preload your spring. I personally add more tape so that it becomes another surface for the spring to push against. If you've done it right (or at least my way), the spring is actually compressed a bit before you close the blaster up. Up to you what you do about this though...


    Last edited by Echoes on Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:14 am; edited 3 times in total (Reason for editing : Typos kill my life.)
    238232
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    Post  238232 Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:09 am

    As Echoes has pointed out, if your padding is thin enough then the plunger tube will be further forward, pushing that lock down so you can prime it. Note that it's the same lock that prevents you from pulling the handle back after you've already primed it.
    Dietzie
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    Post  Dietzie Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:22 am

    With the AT the padding will affect plunger travel to trip the locks to allow re-priming. I just built up the space with hotglue and have had no trouble since


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    Post  Samoorai Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:40 am

    For a stock only HvZ event, is the longstrike a decent primary?

    My full loadout is longstrike, raider for when things get hairy, and barricade as backup.
    melbnerf619
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    Post  melbnerf619 Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:42 am

    Samoorai wrote:For a stock only HvZ event, is the longstrike a decent primary?

    My full loadout is longstrike, raider for when things get hairy, and barricade as backup.
    IMO, it isn't too bad for stock but you will have to make a choice between the longstrike and the raider and you can make the barricade a sidearm. IMO i'd choose the raider because of slam fire.
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    Post  RL Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:43 am

    If you think about it - that law's put in place to stop counterfeiting, not modifying nerf guns.

    Littering is technically illegal - I suppose we should all go to jail and get fines. I've been fined for parking on a spot that wasn't allowed to be parked on for another 30 minutes, yet I've driven past that place a few times now where people have been parking earlier than I did, and I don't see ticket stubs on their windshield wipers.

    Anyway Xoenz, remove the lock with the black screw and make sure the bar connecting the trigger with the "bolt sled" thing is placed like so in this photo (I'll just link you - http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs943.snc4/73651_1660424717836_1453710405_1654357_432482_n.jpg)

    I had this constant problem with my AT where yeah it wouldn't work at all after I modded it, turns out I wasn't completely meticulous with the arrangement of the bits and pieces
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    Post  Echoes Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:44 am

    Samoorai wrote:For a stock only HvZ event, is the longstrike a decent primary?

    My full loadout is longstrike, raider for when things get hairy, and barricade as backup.

    It's probably best you don't carry so much. Your best weapons against zombies are your legs, for running away or dodging them :P. The more gear you carry, the more awkward it'll be to move (especially a longstrike). Honestly your best bet is to just go with the Raider and the Barricade. Every situation is going to get hairy if the zombies are organised enough
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    Post  Swatsonia Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:46 am

    For HvZ, unless you are really quick and control your shots, I'd go Raider over a longstrike. Don't weigh yourself down with more than one primary unless you are tanking. Definitely keep the barricade as a sidearm though, but keep it switched off (for obvious reasons).
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    Post  Xoenz Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:58 am

    Whoa,

    Thanks allot to everyone who helped me!

    Problem has been fixed, i just removed the padding. I left the 5c coin on, to act as a reinforcement, but i think it's weight is slowing the plunger down. (Less range)

    I have added 1-2cm wide worth of teflon tape to compress the spring for more range, but its still fallen 4-5m short of its original ranges, any suggestions?
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    Post  Echoes Tue Jun 14, 2011 12:02 pm

    Xoenz wrote:Whoa,

    Thanks allot to everyone who helped me!

    Problem has been fixed, i just removed the padding. I left the 5c coin on, to act as a reinforcement, but i think it's weight is slowing the plunger down. (Less range)

    I have added 1-2cm wide worth of teflon tape to compress the spring for more range, but its still fallen 4-5m short of its original ranges, any suggestions?

    Whoa indeed

    Uhh well you're probably going to want to seal the air release hole and improve the O-ring seal.

    How much tape did you stick on the tube? If you didn't change it from the pictures you posted, you might want to take the spring off, add more tape so it builds up a tad higher (but not so much that it doesn't catch) and then put the spring back on.

    If you do it correctly, your spring would be pushing against a wall of tape instead of the plastic "rim" of the plunger tube. At the moment it looks like the tape is just fouling up the spring's compression rather than helping it.
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    Post  clunk07 Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:04 pm

    Like Echoes said, the e-tape needs to increase the pre-load on the spring, not the actually diameter of the plunger tube. Also, you may want to consider removing the 5c coin, and replacing it with a similar sized washer. You need to focus on reinforcing the outside of the plunger tube end, more so than the middle. Also, the washer allows you to add more epoxy.



    Barricade's jam when you pull the trigger too fast. There's been some good explanations as to why, so I'll leave it at that. With the flywheel activation mod I've done to both of mine, I still pull the trigger slowly, and the pause between shots allows the flywheels to increase up to full rpm again.

    Cheers,
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    Post  Samoorai Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:03 am

    Swatsonia wrote:For HvZ, unless you are really quick and control your shots, I'd go Raider over a longstrike. Don't weigh yourself down with more than one primary unless you are tanking. Definitely keep the barricade as a sidearm though, but keep it switched off (for obvious reasons).

    In a sense I will be tanking. There's going to be 3 of us sticking together. One of them is going to be our scout, cause he's actually in shape, armed with an alpha trooper and a maverick. The other is going to be our ammo bitch, reloading out empty clips for us and scavenging bullets when possible. We might be giving him my unity (titan, hornet, and scout) or just a maverick and the scout.
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    Post  clunk07 Wed Jun 15, 2011 1:27 pm

    Has anyone successfully painted n-strike clips before? I've tried a few methods, only to fail miserably. Yet, I got a Raider drum from Singapore, which was painted perfectly. Unfortunately, I can't contact the previous owner.

    I've tried sanding, washing etc, and have used vinyl dye, acrylic and enamel primer on separate occasions, but to no avail...

    Cheers,

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