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Oz Nerf - Australian Nerf Community

Nerfing down under!. Oz Nerf - Australian Nerf Community

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» gold coast nerf war?
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» nerf clearout
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» How to replace the Longshot trigger plate?
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» WTB felt for slugs
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Dietzie
evozn
holdentem
Akimbo Assassin
False
whichgrep
cfb_rolley
melbnerf619
littlebro05
Ungmon
14 posters

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    Ungmon


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    Post  Ungmon Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:46 am

    .


    Last edited by Ungmon on Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
    littlebro05
    littlebro05
    War Organiser
    War Organiser


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    Location : Brisbane Boi!

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    Post  littlebro05 Thu Nov 03, 2011 1:12 am

    Nice! I might check it out. It might be time that I have a go at painting my Nerf Blasters, more specifically, a triple shot XD.
    melbnerf619
    melbnerf619


    Posts : 711
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    Post  melbnerf619 Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:32 am

    Has anyone used this? Is it any good?

    -James
    cfb_rolley
    cfb_rolley


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    Post  cfb_rolley Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:44 am

    melbnerf619 wrote:Has anyone used this? Is it any good?

    -James

    I use it to paint all my bmx gear so on metal it's not bad. on plastics however, I'd sand it well and make sure it's really clean, and also clear coat over the top. I'd still slightly prefer to use squirts from bunnings for plastic, though $10 bucks is pretty cheap...
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    whichgrep


    Posts : 111
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    Location : Victoria

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    Post  whichgrep Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:47 am

    I've just about finished painting my BBUMB with these. They're not bad, provided you remember that they're enamel, and not acrylic modelling paint:


    • prepare the surface properly. I sanded all over with 350 grit paper.
    • shake the can properly. Vigourously, for 5 minutes.
    • use many light thin coats. I think I ended up with 10-15 coats, one per day
    • allow >12 hours between coats. Any less, and it's still sticky when you pick it up (leaving fingerprints) or the next coat bubbles.
    • sand lumps and bumps lightly between coats. I only sanded when I had to, where mosquitos or dust stuck to the paint while wet, using 1600 grit wet-and-dry.


    I found Tamiya paints easier to use, but they're also in smaller cans and much more expensive ...

    Hope this helps.
    False
    False


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    Location : Gold Coast, Queensland.

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    Post  False Thu Nov 03, 2011 11:57 am

    I use it a lot. Mainly because I am a cheap bastard, haha.

    It seems to work pretty well, I use White Night Crystal Clear Acrylic to seal it all off. Even though the Export is enamel, it works very nicely, leaving it smooth and non sticky.


    Last edited by False on Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
    Akimbo Assassin
    Akimbo Assassin


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    Post  Akimbo Assassin Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:26 pm

    whichgrep wrote:[*] use many light thin coats. I think I ended up with 10-15 coats, one per day.

    That sounds like way too many coats needed. Maybe you need to apply a layer of primer first?
    holdentem
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    Post  holdentem Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:31 pm

    I use these paints, They are quite good.
    I get them at Shiploads for $2 a can.
    They aren't the best paint for the job, But it's pretty good for the price.
    I use the Australian Export clear coat to seal it off aswell.

    Cheers
    - Holdentem
    evozn
    evozn


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    Post  evozn Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:50 pm

    I might have to change to exports now, I'm currently using army painter and that cost me $25 a can and that kinda empties my wallet each month
    False
    False


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    Post  False Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:54 pm

    $25 a can? Jesus!
    avatar
    whichgrep


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    Post  whichgrep Thu Nov 03, 2011 1:24 pm

    Akimbo Assassin wrote:
    whichgrep wrote:[*] use many light thin coats. I think I ended up with 10-15 coats, one per day.

    That sounds like way too many coats needed. Maybe you need to apply a layer of primer first?

    Yes, I had primer, I was just too fussy about having it smooth, and for some reason we've had a mosquito plague recently, so I kept getting mosquitoes landing on the paint and getting stuck. So then I had to sand it smooth and do another coat ...
    Dietzie
    Dietzie


    Posts : 361
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    Location : Granville, Queensland

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    Post  Dietzie Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:06 pm

    I have used Australian export paint on every blaster I have painted. Only one was primed and none were sanded, only washed. All blasters in question have been bounced around in bags, tin trunks and car boots and have only light scratches to show for it.
    I recomend this brand to anyone on a budget.


    ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
    To grow old is inevitable
    To grow up is optional
    Adult member of the NIC: I PLAY WITH TOY GUNS AND I VOTE

    Trying to bring organized wars to the Fraser Coast

    Facebook: Knownas Dietzie. Find me through Brisbane Nerf Group or Fraser Coast Nerf Group
    clunk07
    clunk07
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    Post  clunk07 Sat Nov 05, 2011 6:14 pm

    All my commission's for the last 5 months have predominantly been painted with Export. Primer, base coat and lacquer.

    As for WK Squirts, I use them every now and again, but mainly only due to colour selection. I've found no difference whatsoever when comparing them to AE rattle cans. Actually, I've really only noticed that the WK Squirts seems to be a bit thicker than the AE. Not so bad when priming, but a major nuisance when painting stencilled camo.

    Cheers,


    ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
    . Cwc_lo10

    Clunk Weapons Co. Blaster-smith Services:
    Commissions offered on Stampede, LongShot, Spectre, LED Maverick.

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    Rocafix
    Rocafix


    Posts : 101
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    Age : 23
    Location : Brisbane

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    Post  Rocafix Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:59 am

    Thanks man, I've been needing this for a while!

    I also see there is a rotary tool for 30 dollars!

    Cheers.
    ucwepn
    ucwepn


    Posts : 36
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    Post  ucwepn Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:21 am

    Gonna pick some up on the weekend for sure. Bunnings have a good rotary tool for $20 I think it was, definately does the job and comes with many different tips XU1 is the brand.
    evozn
    evozn


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    Post  evozn Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:12 pm

    ucwepn wrote:Gonna pick some up on the weekend for sure. Bunnings have a good rotary tool for $20 I think it was, definately does the job and comes with many different tips XU1 is the brand.
    I have one, great at the start but when getting into more advanced mods it just didn't cut it. I upgraded to the Ozito one, worth the extra.
    spectre
    spectre


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    Location : Sunraysia, Victoria

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    Post  spectre Wed Nov 09, 2011 10:58 am

    evozn wrote:I have one, great at the start but when getting into more advanced mods it just didn't cut it. I upgraded to the Ozito one, worth the extra.


    Agreed, the Ozito hand finishing tool would have to be considered as a decent entry level for modding although an actual Dremel would be even better (budget permitting).

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