The Questions Thread.

day wrote:To remove the Alpha Trooper's air restrictor using the pipe cutter method, where do I need to cut?

Or is this a less safe method compared to the recon/raider?

From my experience where that line about 2-3cm right to the hole.

You cut about 3/4 of a cm behind that line in the middle.
The air restrictor and peg should just fall out.
Alternatly, you can drilll the whole assemble out, or use a screw drive and hammer it out.

Kat wrote:You cut about 3/4 of a cm behind that line in the middle.
The air restrictor and peg should just fall out.
Alternatly, you can drilll the whole assemble out, or use a screw drive and hammer it out.

Thanks for the reply,
Not to be pedantic, just would prefer not to take the chance.
But on this image, the bold line (c) is the line you're referring to.

Where would you make the cut? a,b,d,e (or in between d and e)?

Some where between d and e but no further than e.
Also cut lightly and ease your way through the first tube. You don't want to cut through the connecting pipe underneath as it makes it really annoying to glue it back togeather.

So, there are two little prong things, little rectangle holes sort of. You want to cut the same distance behind those as the join line is in front of them.

Thanks for the replies,
Just to follow it up.
So I cut it about 5-6mm behind the line. Shone a torch behind the tube and the thicker part of the tube only seemed to extend about 1cm behind the line so didn't want to cut too far.
Lucky I didn't as you can see from the picture, cut through okay, but there was some glue there but it was weak so i could pull the two ends apart.

Should be able to glue the two ends back together.

I am modding a Nite Finder, I ave already replace the spring with a c-836, upgraded catch spring, double o-rings e-tape and padding. I have also put a 15mm coupler on but I am quite unsure if this is the right coupler to use. I have check threads and they say use 16mm electrical conduit. If you have any ideas they would be helpful. I live in melbourne and I am quite new to modding.

Thanks Berge

Please direct your questions here to the Questions Thread =)

Hello,
welcome to the community,
First of all, this should go in the questions thread but not being an arsehole 15mm coupler is a good way to go but along with that, go to your local middy's and buy 16mm conduit, wrap it with e-tape until it fits snugly in the 15mm PVC that you should have and glue the conduit to the PVC. Length of the conduit should be about 5-6 inches In my experiace.
-James

I have tried both the 15mm PVC coupler and a 20mm conduit coupler on my NF. I prefer the latter because it is slightly smaller, allowing my to -just- be able to keep using that screw port near the tactical rail. I haven't really seen a 16mm conduit coupler. But if there were some around, I'd grab that.

A 15mm PVC coupler is just too chunky for me.

I got 2 16mm conduit coulpers. I got them from bunnings.

Right I've been told this is the place to ask newb Nerf questions, so here I am.

Paint types:
I've looked through the forums and see sprays mentioned and vinyl dye. I took a trip to Bunnings and could only find one spray can for plastic and it was green (ugh). I haven't heard of vinyl dye before, but someone on here said an auto store might stock it.

QUESTION: What makes of these spray paints should I be looking for? Specificity would be appreciated since I have no clue what I am looking for, other than it needs to adhere to sanded plastic.

QUESTION: I'm thinking about a wall storage setup. Has anyone else done this? Think wall-mounted gun rack on a massive scale. I've looked around the Gold Coast for (forgive my inane description here but I don't know the correct name) 'that stuff in stores with loads of holes that you can attach different length hooks / wire holders to', all to no avail. What do you guys use if anything?

Thanks!!

I've found that Bunnings has peg board, it's not cheap but it'll be very useful.

Super Cheap Auto sells "Vinyl Paint" which works great. Just LIGHTLY sand the surface and give it a wash. I believe SCA only sells one brand.

GirlyGamer wrote:Right I've been told this is the place to ask newb Nerf questions, so here I am.

Paint types:
I've looked through the forums and see sprays mentioned and vinyl dye. I took a trip to Bunnings and could only find one spray can for plastic and it was green (ugh). I haven't heard of vinyl dye before, but someone on here said an auto store might stock it.

QUESTION: What makes of these spray paints should I be looking for? Specificity would be appreciated since I have no clue what I am looking for, other than it needs to adhere to sanded plastic.

QUESTION: I'm thinking about a wall storage setup. Has anyone else done this? Think wall-mounted gun rack on a massive scale. I've looked around the Gold Coast for (forgive my inane description here but I don't know the correct name) 'that stuff in stores with loads of holes that you can attach different length hooks / wire holders to', all to no avail. What do you guys use if anything?

Thanks!!

Export paint is probably the best value for money in an enamel rattle can. I'm currently using this brand completely for my jobs - primer, base, top and clear lacquer.

For vinyl dye, look for either brands: 3M or VHT

check this thread for some more in-depth info:

http://www.oznerf.com/t2810-paint-brands-on-nerf-guns#45398

For your wall rack, are you talking about something like this:





If so, then what you're chasing is peg-board. It's available in either sheet metal, or masonite, in various sheet sizes. The masonite versions should be available from most hardware stores, as well as the various pegs required. Bunning's would probably be a good start.

Cheers,

Is there anyone else near Wodonga or like 30 mins away? Because I want to go to a war but most are to far away.

@clunk07
@Unknown

Thanks so much for the help guys.
That peg-board is the exact stuff I was thinking. The Bunnings at Harbor Town here on the Gold Coast didn't seem to stock it, so I'll check another. I'll also be taking note of the other info.

Much appreciated
xxx

GirlyGamer wrote:@clunk07
@Unknown

Thanks so much for the help guys.
That peg-board is the exact stuff I was thinking. The Bunnings at Harbor Town here on the Gold Coast didn't seem to stock it, so I'll check another. I'll also be taking note of the other info.

Much appreciated
xxx

I'd be pretty certain that most Mitre 10/Home Hardware stores would stock it. Not cheap though. I pay roughly $35 per sheet, but it would definitely be cheaper on the Goldie/Brizzy.

If none of the staff understand what a peg board is, another name for it is a "shadow board".

Bunning's will be the cheapest place to get the hooks though, as far as hardware stores go anyway.

For availability, I'd be tempted to sand your blaster's, and use export primer and paint. Vinyl dye has limited colours, and isn't cheap either.

Check this for examples of the export/white knight's paint:

http://www.oznerf.com/t3270-cwc-custom-paint-jobs#56778

Cheers,

I'm slowly getting off my arse and start modding my wares.

What grit sandpapers should I use to perform an excellent paintjob and will I need to thoroughly go through every nook and cranny?

mull wrote:I'm slowly getting off my arse and start modding my wares.

What grit sandpapers should I use to perform an excellent paintjob and will I need to thoroughly go through every nook and cranny?

Hey Mull,

I generally use 120 grit, and 320 grit, as well as medium foam sanding pads.

Predominantly, I utilise the sanding pads. I only use the 120 grit for pre-painted areas, such as the hand-grip on the LS, and if I get a bit heavy with it, I'll smooth it down with the 320.

I try and get in to all the grooves, but nothing too drastic. Obviously, I focus on the main parts that will be handled, and make sure there will be very good paint adhesion in those areas. I also try to remove all the factory paint from the shell.

Once all is sanded, I give it a final rub-down with the foam pad, then wash etc etc.

Sanding pads are availabe from here:

http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/sanding-sponges/

Note, this is just my process, and may be a bit pedantic for most modder's, but I've had phenomenal results with this method, and it allows me to use cheaper rattle can primer's, with high levels of paint adhesion. It takes me around 4hrs to prep a Stampede, and 5hrs for a LS.

Cheers,

Thanks.

I thought I was being too aggressive with the sandpaper, with the 80 grit on-hand, but relaxed a little with the sanding pads.
Indeed, it's a pain to do the prep work, but 2 hours in and less than halfway through, I thought I wasn't being efficient enough.
But considering 5 hours for a Longshot by such a paintjob veteran as yourself, and this being the first paintjob in the works, it seems that I'm not doing too bad at this stage.

A mate of mine tried sandblasting on his disposable Recon stock, as an apprentice at his family-run workplace, with mixed results.
Fine glass bead will chew through the plastic at close range, but given distance, ended up with a weathered yellow-grey look, presumably from sanddust residue or that some of the particles have got embedded onto the surface.
Possibly no dice on the sandblasting at this point, on such a soft material, whereas the sanding particles would just bounce off metal surfaces, leaving a very clean finish.

I'll stick to well-tested tedious hand sanding method, until he decides for himself whether to fine-tune his technique from trial and error on his own blasters, if he has the desire to do so.

Hehe, you kidding me? I just finished sanding my clip-fed Barricade last night. Did it over past 3 nights and took about 5 hours in total. I know I'm a slow coach. It'll take another 1.5 week before I can finish the paintjob.

You're on the right track mull by the sounds of it. Other guys prep their blaster's in under an hour, but who knows how long the paint will stick.

Servulus has had relative success with sand-blasting, but dialled down to very low pressure. Also, using grit that's been blasted 3 or 4 times would probably help as well.

Cheers,

Am I on crack, or have they swapped the metal bar for screws on the Recon CS6? I can't get the slide off and I can see some screws that look suspiciously like they are holding it together. There's absolutely no guides on the interjets that mention this except for the clear CS6, but the one I have isn't clear.

Anyone got any ideas?

EDIT: Here's a picture of the screw, if that helps anyone. Excuse my shitty phone camera.

Where can I get a catch spring for a longshot with a stock, recon and nite finder springs. and do I need to renforce anything.

@colipos2...

Any Longshot with a 'spring upgrade' WILL require a reinforcement to your boltsled. Mine had a hair line crack with just a NiteFinder and Longshot stock springs combo.

if i put a HC in an LSFG should it count as a pistol?

plulse wrote:if i put a HC in an LSFG should it count as a pistol?

A Hand Cannon in a LSFG, probably not a pistol.

TooBz wrote:

plulse wrote:if i put a HC in an LSFG should it count as a pistol?

A Hand Cannon in a LSFG, probably not a pistol.

So my Stampede in a LSFG isn't a pistol?

Deckard wrote:Am I on crack, or have they swapped the metal bar for screws on the Recon CS6? I can't get the slide off and I can see some screws that look suspiciously like they are holding it together. There's absolutely no guides on the interjets that mention this except for the clear CS6, but the one I have isn't clear.

Anyone got any ideas?

EDIT: Here's a picture of the screw, if that helps anyone. Excuse my shitty phone camera.

No that just holding the slide on to the shell of the recon, You don't need to remove the screw at all.

That a look at this write up to help pull it a part.

http://www.oznerf.com/t456-nerf-recon-modification

it's always had screws

plulse: that's actually what KingCam basically said

plulse wrote:if i put a HC in an LSFG should it count as a pistol?

Ah, obviously not. Would you like to shape-up against a TitMav.... same theory...

Cheers,

actually yes, i would use my nitefinder just ask littlebro05 i won with a nf against a ts.

plulse wrote:actually yes, i would use my nitefinder just ask littlebro05 i won with a nf against a ts.

Yeh, well...

Without sounding like an arrogant prick, my Titan tanks dent colour-bond steel mate. I doubt a NF will prevent you from ending up with a hole in your body somewhere...

But, yeh, nice work on the win with the NF over a TS!!

Cheers,

hey guys, would it be possible to integrate a maverick into the barrel of the recon, then integrate the recon into a longshot and would it be a logical idea?

clunk07 wrote:

plulse wrote:actually yes, i would use my nitefinder just ask littlebro05 i won with a nf against a ts.

Yeh, well...

Without sounding like an arrogant prick, my Titan tanks dent colour-bond steel mate. I doubt a NF will prevent you from ending up with a hole in your body somewhere...

But, yeh, nice work on the win with the NF over a TS!!

Cheers,

if u want i cant use my berserker it shots about 280 FT but i'm pretty sure my nite finder would work fine