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3 posters

    Rebarreling a NiteFinder

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    Raphie


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    Rebarreling a NiteFinder Empty Rebarreling a NiteFinder

    Post  Raphie Sun Aug 30, 2009 8:55 am

    Currently my NF has the air restrictors taken out. Hole drilled in the plastic cap which had the barrel post. Multiple rubber bands added as well. No reinforcements or spring replacement. It is more powerful now and is quite loud. However it is inaccurate. How should I fix this problem? Should I replace the barrel with a longer one?
    I've seen Roger Explosion's brass mod but what does it really do? Does it just make it more powerful? And how do you get the dart to go all the way in? Wouldn't it be impractical to use a ramrod?

    Im testing with streamline darts. One of the darts has glue in it. Usually when i fire the streamline darts it defies gravity and goes up first and then wildly left and right. Would replacing the barrel make it more accurate?
    Roger Explosion
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    Post  Roger Explosion Sun Aug 30, 2009 9:41 am

    Rebarreling it helps with range and accuracy.

    Rebarreling a NiteFinder Nfmod31

    I was testing this one before with a couple of "Postie" bands on it. firing Tag darts and my converted darts and i was able to hit a bedside table easly from bout 15 meters away. So putting a brass barrel on it makes it much more accurate.

    I didn't notice much diffrence between ramroding and just pusing the dart in with my finger. there is only noticable range diffrence with high power guns like a Big blast or my Big Bad Bow.

    But there is another solution, which is to add a coupler. like Ham Sandwich here
    Rebarreling a NiteFinder IMGP2185

    So you can pull the barrel off and stick the dart in the back of the barrel and put it back onto the coupler. which is faster and eaiser to do than ramrodding. especialy if you have multiple barrels glued together (AKA Speedloader)
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:18 pm

    I thought the Tagger darts had a massive head on them. So they fit in the tight barrel. So you put your finger down the brass tubing to push the dart all they way in. I dont even know if my finger is long enough or skinny. My left index finger is only as long as your brass barrel in the picture! My finger is 6 cm. And finger width is the size of a streamline dart. So im kind of puzzled.
    Roger Explosion
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    Post  Roger Explosion Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:48 pm

    I did make that a little confusing. I was talking about not ramroding the darts all the way in. just still having the heads sticking out the top. There is no way i can fit my finger down that barrel. When they are loaded in like this there is a bit of dead space in the barrel behind the dart.
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Mon Aug 31, 2009 9:44 am

    Roger Explosion wrote:I did make that a little confusing. I was talking about not ramroding the darts all the way in. just still having the heads sticking out the top. There is no way i can fit my finger down that barrel. When they are loaded in like this there is a bit of dead space in the barrel behind the dart.

    So if there is space behind the dart will the darts still be accurate? Im thinking about using PETG or CPVC. What is a good length? I will be using streamline darts mostly.
    Im am thinking of getting the MOD MAN PETG. What is the difference between the thick walled and thin walled? The main reason i am rebarreling is to increase accuracy because currently it is too powerful. Does anyone sell PETG or CPVC here?
    Roger Explosion
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    Post  Roger Explosion Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:26 am

    Its still as accurate with a bit of dead space, you may just loose a foot or two in range. 4 Inches should be good barrel length. If you're using Streamlines you can still ram rod it down the whole way. You just need to make sure there is something at the end of the barrell to stop the dart from getting into the plunger.
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:03 am

    So im going to need 4 inches long, 1/2 width, thick walled PETG which i will rebarrel my NF to increase accuracy.
    Thanks Roger!
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:58 am

    Roger Explosion wrote:I did make that a little confusing. I was talking about not ramroding the darts all the way in. just still having the heads sticking out the top. There is no way i can fit my finger down that barrel. When they are loaded in like this there is a bit of dead space in the barrel behind the dart.

    Would the dead air mean the NF dryfiring? Unless you put the dart to the end wouldntit be dryfiring?
    Roger Explosion
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    Post  Roger Explosion Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:03 am

    There is still a seal with the dart in, so It wouldn't be dry firing.
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:20 pm

    I am going to refer to your brass barrel mod Roger.
    What pieces of the stock barrel did you throw out? I saw that you cut some of to fit the brass. Your new barrel, was it placed ON the plunger or IN the plunger tube? Does it really matter? How far in should the new barrel go in the plunger tube? I presuming it is a little bit in to keep the barrel stable.

    Thank you for your help
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:18 pm

    What does this do?
    Rebarreling a NiteFinder P1030510

    Why do people drill the middle bit out?
    Rebarreling a NiteFinder P1030511

    Is that an air restrictor? Because i didnt drill it out.

    This is in a NF by the way.
    Roger Explosion
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    Post  Roger Explosion Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:35 pm

    Its what the Plunger head stops on. It also makes up part of the air restrictor. Having it like the second picture will help increase air flow.
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    Post  Raphie Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:59 am

    If that is where the plunger stops then when people drill it out, where does the plunger stop? Wont the plunger slowly be worn away and in the end break?
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:56 pm

    Another Question. At what time of modding does dryfiring becomes an issue? Is it when you take out the barrel post, drill a hole in the air restrictor or take out the spring and three pong plastic?
    Roger Explosion
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    Post  Roger Explosion Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:24 pm

    As soon as the Air Restrictor is out, you better avoid dry firing.
    With the AR in, it will create a cusihon of air to slow the plunger. But when its gone, The Plunger head will hit the end at full force. When there is a dart loaded there will be a build up of air which will slow the plunger head.

    As for the other question
    Raphie wrote:If that is where the plunger stops then when people drill it out, where does the plunger stop? Wont the plunger slowly be worn away and in the end break?

    The Plunger head still stops on the outer ring part. And I've had no problems with plunger heads breaking with that part out. I don't even think the middle part of that plunger stop piece even comes in contact with the Plunger head. I think it is only what holds the spring for the 3 pronged part of the Air Restrictor.
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    Raphie


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    Post  Raphie Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:16 am

    Oh man. That sucks. Now I wont take out the AR's in my Recon or Maverick. I dryfire accidently a fair bit.


    So if I put my finger in the barrel of a modded NF. And I fire, it doesnt mean I dryfire because the finger is there to build up pressure.
    aardman
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    Post  aardman Wed Sep 09, 2009 1:31 am

    As long as you make a good seal.
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    Post  Guest Sat Sep 12, 2009 12:27 pm

    I just finished modding my nightfinder replaced he barrel with pvc it is fantastic I recomend doing this.

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