A different take on the Recon AR removal

This is somewhat of an idea based on the theory ive learnt as a mechanic, which seems to of worked.

I wont go into the disassembly process, as everyone probably knows what the inside of a Recon looks like.

So,

Ive looked at what people are doing to remove air restricters. Most are partially or completely removed.

The ones that ive seen partially removed still have the cylinder wall intact

With the cylinder wall still intact. the air is pressurised and released slowly and ineffectively before it hits the dart. (see pic below diag A)

The other way is to completely remove any air restrictions.
The only debate i have with this, is that, with nothing inhibiting air flow, the air is going to hit the back of the dart before it starts to develop any useful pressure.
Therefore, it will start to push the dart out before it can build a higher pressure.

[img:f487]https://oznerf.forumotion.com/
[/img]
My idea is to leave the restrictor plate and centering pin intact so the air comes in direct, pressurised contact with the back of the dart.

A side theory of this, is to leave the pin intact, so the air doesnt enter the center of the dart, therefore more air hits the back of the dart, and reduces the chance of the dart expanding and causing it to push against the outer wall.
The only setback I see with this, is that the air will become turbulent once is passes through the restrictor plate. Partial removal might reduce that.

[img:134f]https://oznerf.forumotion.com/[/img]

Doing this, combined with another mod (explained further down), i have got a max range of 70 feet.
I used standard microdarts for testing (which gets varied results due to fishtailng). I havent tried any homebrew darts yet (currently working on a batch).

HOW I DID IT:

I didnt want to hammer the internals out with a screwdriver, just in case i went too far and damaged the pin plate.

I knew i wouldnt find a drill bit long enough, so i used something that was sitting right next to me.... a ballpoint pen.

Simply, pull the ink out, and a 4mm bit fits snug in the end. The pen casing is hex shaped and fits well into a 10mm drill chuck. (see pic below)

Proceed to drill out the cylinder wall through the back (plunger side), being carefull not to punch the drillbit out the side of the cylinder.

And then, using whatever you can, pull out the restictor cup and spring, and all the little bits of plastic.

I used a bent screwdriver to get it out and a rat-tail file to clean up the cylinder..


[img:353b]https://oznerf.forumotion.com/[/img]


THE OTHER MOD:

I found that the dart stop doesnt push the darts all the way into the cylinder. (see pic below) There is an easy fix for this.

At the front of the slide mechansim the is a trianglular section that pushes the dart stop down as it approaches the end of its stroke.

By cutting this back a few mm, it pushes the dart stop down a little later in stroke, therefore pushes the dart further into the cylinder

[img:9c23]https://oznerf.forumotion.com/[/img]

And there you go.

Well, thats my theory. Feel free to add to this idea or offer ideas on why it wont work. Im open to any suggestions.

Apologies if this has been covered already, but i couldnt find anything on this method anywhere.

The pic quality is poor, i know. I thank Nokia for that.

Thanks for reading. Hopefully this helps.

I forgot to add. I also filled in the air bleeder in the side of the cylinder.

Nice idea, and theory is pretty sound. I'm doing up a couple of NFs for a mod I'm working on, so I'll test it out and compare the two when I get things sorted. Good thinking dude.

:{>