Hey guys.
So I've knocked up a prototype dart tooth mod for those of us not running brass breached Long shots. It's fairly simple to do, took me about 15-20 minutes to do.
Basically all its doing is pushing the dart further back into the plunger to get a better seal. You will need a fairly keen eye as it is really easy to take out to much plastic an stuff the entire part so take care. I used a ball tool on the dremel as a disk wont get in there.
So here we go
so this is your stock tooth and receiver.
this is the face you will be cutting a slot in for the modified tooth.
marking out a cut line as center as you can going all the way down and back towards the tooth hole. (sorry the second one is abit crap!)
once cut it should look like this. be mindful not to go to wide, you want a gap for 3mm acrylic to run in so only go wide enough till it clears.
Next cut a bit of acrylic 8mm deep x 10mm high and resin it to the dart tooth like so. Make sure the extra part sets straight also make sure to round the corners of the leading edge just in case it snags in a dart
once set you should be looking at this. a nice extended tooth in a flush slide. make sure the tooth DOES NOT poke out past the guide.
stock tooth
modded tooth
set it up right here are the differences between the stock tooth and the modified one, as i said all it is there for is to push the dart further back.
I have not fired anything with it yet and these are stock streamlines with hot glue heads so results may vary with different darts and tips.
I do have the set up mounted in a gun I am working on but its only sitting in the shell, i can flick the spring very fast and it doesn't jam, I'll post again
when the gun is complete and firing test have been done.
Thanks guys.
EDIT: EDIT: EDIT:
Ok guys here it is, 100% thrashed and no issues at all. You can clearly see its nothing like the first tooth. This one has a cut down screw threaded into the main tooth.
The head of the screw is then epoxied in along with the thread. Again i matched the screw length to the face of the receiver. When making your hole for the screw simply raise the tooth to its full height and drill at the center area. Either tap out the hole with a m4x0.7 tap or work a screw into the hole, tapping is a lot easier.
but that it, simple and this one works very very well, better than the last. here's some pics.
be mindful to file down the head of the screw so its flush with the recess on the back of the tooth.
enjoy guys
CAL
So I've knocked up a prototype dart tooth mod for those of us not running brass breached Long shots. It's fairly simple to do, took me about 15-20 minutes to do.
Basically all its doing is pushing the dart further back into the plunger to get a better seal. You will need a fairly keen eye as it is really easy to take out to much plastic an stuff the entire part so take care. I used a ball tool on the dremel as a disk wont get in there.
So here we go
so this is your stock tooth and receiver.
this is the face you will be cutting a slot in for the modified tooth.
marking out a cut line as center as you can going all the way down and back towards the tooth hole. (sorry the second one is abit crap!)
once cut it should look like this. be mindful not to go to wide, you want a gap for 3mm acrylic to run in so only go wide enough till it clears.
Next cut a bit of acrylic 8mm deep x 10mm high and resin it to the dart tooth like so. Make sure the extra part sets straight also make sure to round the corners of the leading edge just in case it snags in a dart
once set you should be looking at this. a nice extended tooth in a flush slide. make sure the tooth DOES NOT poke out past the guide.
stock tooth
modded tooth
set it up right here are the differences between the stock tooth and the modified one, as i said all it is there for is to push the dart further back.
I have not fired anything with it yet and these are stock streamlines with hot glue heads so results may vary with different darts and tips.
I do have the set up mounted in a gun I am working on but its only sitting in the shell, i can flick the spring very fast and it doesn't jam, I'll post again
when the gun is complete and firing test have been done.
Thanks guys.
EDIT: EDIT: EDIT:
Ok guys here it is, 100% thrashed and no issues at all. You can clearly see its nothing like the first tooth. This one has a cut down screw threaded into the main tooth.
The head of the screw is then epoxied in along with the thread. Again i matched the screw length to the face of the receiver. When making your hole for the screw simply raise the tooth to its full height and drill at the center area. Either tap out the hole with a m4x0.7 tap or work a screw into the hole, tapping is a lot easier.
but that it, simple and this one works very very well, better than the last. here's some pics.
be mindful to file down the head of the screw so its flush with the recess on the back of the tooth.
enjoy guys
CAL
Last edited by Calico on Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:09 am; edited 1 time in total