Vulcan Timing Issues.

I recently got one of Servulus' 11kg Vulcan springs. I installed it yesterday and it's working perfectly when using manual fire. However things start to muck up when I use it in full auto.

For about the first 5 or so darts everything goes fine but eventually one dart will get stuck halfway between the barrel and the belt and it'll jam the whole thing up. What I have also noticed is that when it does actually fire the dart, about 1 in 2 darts exit the barrel significantly slower than normal.

Based on these two things, what I think is happening is that the plunger tube isn't making a good seal with the belt or the tube is retracting too early.

Another possibility is that the clutch in the belt gear is slipping, causing the belt to lag behind. Currently it's running on 12V from a power supply that can provide up to about 3-4 amps. I had run the Vulcan stock at 12V with the original spring and it worked fine so I doubt it's the slightly increased feed speed might be causing slippage.

So I was just wondering if anybody that's had more experience diagnosing Vulcan issues could provide some insight into what's causing this.
Thanks

You have to glue the slip clutch to stop the slip.

evozn wrote:You have to glue the slip clutch to stop the slip.

Alright, I'll give it a shot.

I have never had to glue anything in any of my 6 vulcans. The only ones that had problems were the series one vulcans (hopeless by design) But if your using a new type (or one bought in the last year or there about) then you shouldnt have a problem... Also dont use belts from the series one set either, they cause problems too... I need a digital camera to explain this properly, something i am yet to buy.

Servulus wrote:I have never had to glue anything in any of my 6 vulcans. The only ones that had problems were the series one vulcans (hopeless by design) But if your using a new type (or one bought in the last year or there about) then you shouldnt have a problem... Also dont use belts from the series one set either, they cause problems too... I need a digital camera to explain this properly, something i am yet to buy.

Is there any marking on the blaster to tell if it is a series one?
Example (non Nerf related): The first XBOX you could look on the bottom of the case and the warranty label had the version number on it.

Servulus wrote:I have never had to glue anything in any of my 6 vulcans. The only ones that had problems were the series one vulcans (hopeless by design) But if your using a new type (or one bought in the last year or there about) then you shouldnt have a problem... Also dont use belts from the series one set either, they cause problems too... I need a digital camera to explain this properly, something i am yet to buy.

Unfortunately I think it is a series one Vulcan. I bought it second hand off a mate who got it for Christmas a couple years back (before 2010). Is there any way to distinguish the different versions? I've got one of the newest belts (the ones that cover only half the dart at the front) and two older belts, which aren't the original ones that had an dud link at both ends, but are still fully covered at the front.

I didn't end up gluing the clutch as when I pulled it out it still appeared to be quite strong. Overall the it seems to be running a bit better now. I'm making sure that the lid is kept down firmly and I haven't had any more jams, but the ranges have dropped down to a consistent 8-9m when running auto when it's still doing about 15-17m manual.

Ok sounds like a series one, the one way to tell on the gun itself is there is a barrel extension piece that slots in to the barrel (this was done away with on the series 2 gun). The other way is the belts, the new ones come with that section cut out.

The series on and series 2 belts only work in the gun they were designed for, the spacing is ever so slightly different.

Well I think I've found the problem. The issue seems to be the the plunger tube not getting fully pushed forward and therefore not locking in place. It only happens when its blocked from moving forward, and something is also preventing it from springing back in this state. I'm going to open it again this afternoon and see if I can give it a bit more resistance so it can get the extra 1 mm or so and get locked forward.