Lanard Shot Gun/Airzone Triple Shot Overhaul

Intro

So, you feel like going pro with the big guns and feel a little strapped for cash? Is the ubiquitous nature of CS guns bothering you? Are you the "Jack" sub-class of soldiers or the "Pseudo-Sniper" medic taking potshots in FFP? Don't worry, the Lanard Shot Gun/Airzone Triple Shot should take you up the ranks as so long as you follow the mod guide thoroughly and have "1337 mod skillz" yo! This guide is here to assist you into creating something into "overhauled-spec" without holding your hand too much. Do pay special attention to minor details along your progress as these blasters have a nature to be temperamental and finicky over the slightest deviation.

And pay no attention to my use of a yellow shell. I'm just that bloody challenged to be different!

This mod aims to:

• increase plunger displacement
  
• improve plunger seal
  
• improve turret seal
  
• utilise ideal barrel setups.
  
• give you more firepower on the playing field (oh yeah!)

Materials Required

Blaster-barrel prep-up:

• rubber washer - 22mm OD, 10mm ID, 3mm thickness (roughly)
  
• 40mm Vinidex downpipe endcap
  
• 40mm PVC downpipe (32mm pressure-rated PVC also works as verified by -Aj-)
  
• 20mm grey UPVC conduit - medium grade
  
• 16mm grey UPVC conduit - gooni/KingCam-spec (with an ID of between 13-13.2mm)
  
• Zap-a-Gap
  
• Araldite epoxy - 3 day cure (for better results)

Plunger:

• 32mm sink bathplug
  
• stainless steel washers (TOP SECRET)
  
• mudguard washers (TOP SECRET)
  
• nut and bolts - sizes depend on the tapping thread used, ask professional help for assistance

Tools:

• rotary cutting tool/dremel
  
• assorted files and other woodwork tools
  
• tapping set - pick a size suitable for your needs (5mm and 8-32 have been used to good effect)

Build time: 5-7 hours (If you can build this faster, then make that a challenge accepted!)

Got your stuff? Right, into the water, head first...

MOD TIME!

Of course, the first thing to do is to open and pull the blaster apart. So yeah...

Turret and Barrels

Start off by pulling the turret out. Don't worry about the housing and the stock barrel nubs; they're not required unless you want to deviate and use the housing as a stabiliser much akin to the U3-spec blasters.

Then we'll go off and start working our way with the dremel, cutting away the excess nubs against the walls. Use a piece of 20mm UPVC to check its fit; it should be made flush-fit.


Simply cut desired lengths of the 16mm UPVC (9-10.5" is ideal) and prep-up accordingly (sanding, reaming etc.) Cut small sections of 20mm conduit and Zap-a-Gap them on the back of the barrels. Let them cure for a bit.


While you're at it, go ahead and do the rotational-mech glue mods. First, pry out the spring and glue the slip clutch. Then, screw back again and apply a small lip of Zap-a-Gap around the rotation cog and the turret.


NOTE: Now's a good time to mark out with a permanent marker the centres for the rearloading holes. Simply line up the turret to rest position and mark where to drill, making note of where the barrels will be at rest.

Once everything is in check, get your araldite ready for gluing. First, enlarge the holes on the turret up until the point where the 16mm conduit barrel ID is visible but not the OD. Then, apply a coat of glue around the 20mm nubs and a little on the base. Install when ready, ensuring to wipe off any excess glue.


NOTE: If you have a spare barrel spacer around, now's a good time to fit one on to allow the barrels to cure nice and straight.

Plunger (I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH TO GIVE -Aj- ALL THE CREDIT TO THIS MARVEL)

That said, please refer to this video for additional references. Be prepared for "teh lulz"...

Since this isn't my idea, I'm only going to show a post-production pic of the overall construction. I've omitted the sizes for the washers you'll need as respect to -Aj- (that's right, go figure it out yourselves lol .) It shouldn't be too hard to figure it out from here.


It's just a simple step of drilling through the centre, tapping a thread inside, removing fillings, and installing the components as such.

NOTE: To achieve better results, utilise cutting compound or fluid in conjnuction with your drill bit and tapping set.

Don't forget to dremel out the end notch to allow increased displacement and efficiency.


Plunger Tube Housing

Start off by cutting the 40mm endcap down in size as such. About 15-20mm should do it.


You'll need to do a fair bit of guess-and-checking here.

1. Start off by trimming the lip of the endcap that would be sitting over the rotational mechanism; failure to do so will cause improper fitting issues.
   
2. Then glue on the washer to the endcap with Zap-a-Gap. Be sure to line up the centres of both the washer and the turret holes accordingly.
   
3. Drill out the hole in the endcap where the washer is.
   
4. Finally, use a sharp knife to cut away excess rubber off the seal for a better fit.

Endcap:


Finally, cut out about 155mm of the 40mm downpipe for your plunger assembly. The exact measurement is dependent on how well the endcap fits the the turret seal and the shell. Do some guess-and-check work to find the ideal length.
When done, grab some araldite and glue the endcap on the plunger tube in place. PVC cement can also be used if you want.


Guess-and-check fit:


Blaster Shell Preparation

This blaster requires you to dremel away at four key areas for everything to fall in place.

First, the provisions for the stock plunger tube need to be dremeled away along with any other areas the plunger tube endcap will sit.


Next (and this one's a bugger), the notches where the rotational bar rests needs to be trimmed down.


Increase your foregrip stroke by extending the pump grooves.


Finally, dremel away those notches on the top of the shell.


Catch

Do the usual catch mods as such. Go here for additional references.

A simple alteration would be to cut a notch in the catch to allow the torsion spring to rest only in that area, reducing slippage. This is assuming you do the BadWrench spring relocation mod.

I know, stupid macro on camera is to blame here.

Priming Bar

Refer to this picture as a reference on where to cut and file away for maximising pumpstroke.


Don't be afraid to open up the blaster again and fine-tune any areas requiring additional filing.

Now, check to see if it all fits and works without the spring:




If it's all good, let's push it to the final stretch:

Rearloading Holes

Cut a couple of pieces of 20mm OD UPVC. Fit them in the wells with Zap-a-Gap as shown, making sure to line them up with respect to the turret holes (if you followed earlier advice, this step is easy with good lighting.)


Drill, then dremel away as such. Give it a good sanding around the rim when done.




NOTE: Don't be lazy, do both sides to save yourself and others the hassle when reloading. Two slots available to reload is better than one!

Final Steps

Your Shot Gun/Triple Shot should look like this (except for the fact that mine is yellow for awesomeness with 12" barrels for extra dick-waving). If so, install you springs, rinse, clean, lube up with silicone paste, close the shell, and blast away!

Opened:


Complete


NOTE: These blasters, as explained earlier, are very finicky down to the minor details. If required, dremel away at the shell even more so if you find that the blaster does not close at all. On that subjuct, you'll find that the blaster will not close completely, and from there it's just a matter of how little of a gap you can achieve before a tightly packed closing of the blaster.

Ranges

It's good as my first carbon fibre model at around the 95' flat mark with a "Chad" spring from 1.6M height. Expect a duel stefan shotgun-load to travel 1/2 to 2/3rds the distance with roughly a 1' spread (results may vary from dart to dart). Minor deficiencies include improper turret seal and plunger seal lubrication which may increase results slightly when rectified.

Final Comments

This thing is a lean and mean beast. However, there are still some minor tweaks in need with regards to the initial backstroke; you may find that the catch doesn't click properly in the final notch. But when this thing kicks in gear, it really kicks in to provide good midfield range nerfing and light mobility. If you get around making your own improvements with the catch issue, post here so I can update the guide accordingly.
If she works well enough to your liking, however, lube her up regularly and watch her shoot and spray all over the place (excuse the bad double entendre).

How's that for my first write-up? Questions and comments welcomed...

Excellent. This is the kind write up that we don't see very often.

Respect.

Thanks. If only you were there to see my previous model at last weekend's Adelaide war (unless you were there, that is)...

I must admit, it took me a while to think of a template for my style of write-ups. Part of it comes from my rather lengthy absence due to "interesting" reasons (though I still have a couple of minor problems with my account).

A work of art indeed, both the write up and the blaster

You Legend. I'm really diggin' the 40mm Downpipe Method... will put it on my list for things i need to get from bunnings
Personally I found that the 32mm PVC with the Stock Head (from the plungertube) wasn't working super well, but yeah.. THIS IS AWESOME! and with meh Spacer

- Brad

PS: is that a ManCannon shell?

Jesus Christ SS you just gave me something to do in a bit!


Awesome write-up BTW thats like better quality than most people's who are in the NH Directory.

What size ammo are you using in this? 13mm FBR or blue foam?
Anyway awesome writeup, I agree with kingkottah!

TheBradl3s wrote:Personally I found that the 32mm PVC with the Stock Head (from the plungertube) wasn't working super well, but yeah.. THIS IS AWESOME! and with meh Spacer

- Brad

PS: is that a ManCannon shell?

I have found that pressure-rated PVC has quite the variance the ID and OD measurements. My selection for the downpipe comes from the fact that the endcap will always fit nice and snug as it should be.

And yes, that colour scheme you see is the Hand Cannon shell. Dub it ManCannon if you will...

Bacara wrote:What size ammo are you using in this? 13mm FBR or blue foam?
Anyway awesome writeup, I agree with kingkottah!

I used mainly blue tube (seriously, if you're not on it then you're doin' it wrong) foam with streamline length stefans. From time to time, I do make a batch of white 13mm FBR stefans that have been properly heat-and-stretched treated to match the calibre of stock darts (very delicate, difficult, but more rewarding with nice ans dense properties).

My good sir, you are both a gentleman and a scholar . That is some mighty fine work there my friend.

You have also given me some ideas for fine tuning my quads rotation mechanism (as it is still a bit meh).

A full overhaul is not on the cards as yet, but if it comes up, I know where to look now.

Great work VAJ, and I hope to see it in action in the not too distant future.

Gooni.

PS, I hear your mancannon is manly, can't wait to see it IRL. (that's what she said)

Good work on the write-up, I just recently got one of these and I've been keen on modding it. Just need to find time to get to lilydale to get some conduit from Cam

That's come a long way from the crazy beast we were trying to get together for RoF at 3am :p

Good work on the writeup dude it's very clear. I can relate the steps back to when you were actually doing most of that to the first one at my place.

Psykka wrote:That's come a long way from the crazy beast we were trying to get together for RoF at 3am :p

Oh please do not remind me, especially when the Youtubes have already featured such epic fail.

Updates

Things that I've discovered through the week of plinking with this blaster:

• The write-up features a white washer (food grade). Try sourcing a black one as it gives better sealing properties combined with a thick lubricant.
  
• Loading two stefans in the one barrel (assuming that they're at least 2" long) will net an "incline clip" effect, in which one dart will propel around half the maximum distance before the second in line will fire at full potential. Please keep that in mind if you wish to experiment incline clip features much akin to my previous incarnation featured in the pre-RoF blaster pics.
  
• Shot slugs or inch-length stefans will net the desired shotgun effect as described in the results. Centimetre-length pellet shots can be loaded with a maximum of four before jamming, netting about 1/4 of the maximum distance.
  
• Make sure you reinforce your catch as it has the highest stress/fail point in the blaster. Many of the catch problems can stem from the catch cracking near where the pin is located. Fill with araldite or equivalent.

Apart from that, this blaster is still kicking it well. I should range test it with the addition of an LS spring.

Even if it was an epic fail it was still fun working on it. Along with those accursed furyfires!

I think I shall have to overhaul my triple shot. I've got an idea involving couplers that I'd like to try.

The problem with the 'addition of the LongShot spring' is that you won't be able to prime it back to it's 'full' draw length. The catch is too flimsy to take anything stronger. This is tested with three different catch springs to push down on the plungers 'indent'. You'll occassionally be able to prime it fully, but you'll be looking at a very 'broken' shell. You'll see what I mean after you use it a couple of times.

It has one of chads springs in it. He has used it quite alot already.

Whhhhheeeeee, answer time!

Psykka wrote:I think I shall have to overhaul my triple shot. I've got an idea involving couplers that I'd like to try.

Hmm, does it involve reaming out the turret to fit 16mm conduit couplers? (I guess we're gonna discuss these matters anyway the next time I come around.)

littlebro05 wrote:The problem with the 'addition of the LongShot spring' is that you won't be able to prime it back to it's 'full' draw length. The catch is too flimsy to take anything stronger. This is tested with three different catch springs to push down on the plungers 'indent'. You'll occassionally be able to prime it fully, but you'll be looking at a very 'broken' shell. You'll see what I mean after you use it a couple of times.

Psykka wrote:It has one of chads springs in it. He has used it quite alot already.

Right.

Just to clarify, this machine is now packing both a "Chad" spring in conjuction with an LS spring. Now, don't get me wrong when I say this: I have experienced very bad catch problems in the past with these puppies and I've had valueble input from those who are experienced in the Shot Gun fare. Most of the problems to tend to stem from either the rounding off of the notches on the plunger rod (which the BadWrench mod aims to minimise) or catches themselves not being reinforced properly, especially where the safety is located. After reinforcing and replacing the catch since the start of the write-up, I have no problems actuating the cycle in anyway as so long as you're willing to give it a fair tug as you prime the blaster.

That said, I have been cycling its action and firing it at an average of ten shots per day at different settings to understand the blaster more and more. There have been no problems ever since. With that in mind, for the sake of proper knowledge in this thread, if you, littlebro, cannot show me a picture to help verify those claims
or give more details to how often the blaster is used to reach that failure point then I'm going to make the request to leave the issue at that. Quite honestly this overhaul helps to achieve the use of multiple springs by utilising tighter plunger tube tolerances and it has held its end of the bargain ever since.

Well the problem here is not only the priming Mech... but you're going to have to bolt SOME of it down... phuonguyen should be uploading pictures shortly of this 'shell' problem.

V2 LS and Stock LS will end up breaking off the screw points in the shell. I've got another spring, totalling 3 springs in my blaster and it will not prime all the way back, it only primes back to 5 notches.


And that's my catch setup.

oh me, oh my.

great writeup. this really pushes me to re-think about my quadshot.

and phuonguyen, your catch setup is INSANE.
hahahaha

thanks for this!

Lol, point is that that the v2 spring + LS spring is a little too much power needed. You see the shell damage. The screw are out. When phuonguyen primes the blaster it looks like it's about to split into two pieces and doesn't prime fully. You should really take some 'insight' from other modders like yourself.

After opening up both my blaster and a stock blaster given to me on loan, I will make the following points:

• I have yet to find out exactly why your Triple Shot, phuonguyen, from a layout perspective has given away at those screws based on the spring setup in comparison my own Shot Gun. My only conclusion would be that the Hand Cannon shell features a stronger and thicker construction compared to the Triple Shot shell. That, and perhaps the use of three springs is just overkill. I have noticed that the threads are built more sturdier than those of the T'rU equivalent. That said, if your Triple Shot/Shot Gun shell is rooted, go and buy the Hand Cannon and perform this mod at your will.
  
  
• Since this mod aims to improve overall efficiency rather than the band-aid solution of slapping more springs, don't utilise any more power the equivalent of both a "Chad" spring and a stock LS spring. This should be adequate to give you ranges over than 100' with the "Chad" spring alone giving off 95ish' flat.

There. I think we can all agree on that yes?

Either way, this write-up is not about how many springs one should use in a Triple Shot/Shot Gun. It's about improving the blaster in every area possible. I hope to see more of these cheap and nasty puppies modded very similar to this style on the field.

Well, i may not be in any position to say this because i own only one triple shot
so i dont have adequate experience...

But from what i heard, the lanard versions feature shells that are made of a stronger plastic than the air zone versions...

That just might be the case.

My triple shot is of the airzone make, modded into a quadshot, and is powered by the triple shot stock spring and a longshot stock spring. Fully priming it doesnt take too much strength, but the sound of the shell creaking each time i pull the priming handle back is nothing short of scary.

Silent Scope wrote:
Either way, this write-up is not about how many springs one should use in a Triple Shot/Shot Gun. It's about improving the blaster in every area possible. I hope to see more of these cheap and nasty puppies modded very similar to this style on the field.

Nah man, just saying. However, how many wars has your Handcannon been in with the LS + Chad spring? Phuonguyen's quadshot has been at approximately, 7-9 wars to do that kind of damage.

And, no the write up was meant to be an insight of what you can do, I know. Just wanted to add when you update the 'spring upgrades'. Should definitely tell us what happens after a couple of walls. Looking forward to that.

The Shot Gun is still a war-virgin. However, she's going on a test-run on the 27th.

That said, I don't bother telling people what they should do with regards to spring usage. I slide those facts in to give a rough idea to others what improvements have come by from before to after modifying.

And I'm going to confess something (which some of the SA may already know): My carbon fibre Shot Gun did experience catch problems with just a "Chad", most likely due to the looser fit of my custom-made plunger tube.

The Bottom Line: Be sure to make things nice and tight fitting with the plunger tube, turret seals etc. to ensure proper 95-100% catch success.

Silent Scope wrote:The Shot Gun is still a war-virgin. However, she's going on a test-run on the 27th.

That said, I don't bother telling people what they should do with regards to spring usage. I slide those facts in to give a rough idea to others what improvements have come by from before to after modifying.

And I'm going to confess something (which some of the SA may already know): My carbon fibre Shot Gun did experience catch problems with just a "Chad", most likely due to the looser fit of my custom-made plunger tube.

The Bottom Line: Be sure to make things nice and tight fitting with the plunger tube, turret seals etc. to ensure proper 95-100% catch success.

Eh, just a recommendation from us is what will happen.

Well you've seen phuonguyen's spring catch set up, it's struggles to trigger lock the plunger all the way into place and there are like three springs pushing down on the plunger.

phuong would be much better off using one very strong spring with a good compression than 3 that add up to being strong.

Multiple springs add far to much unnecessary force to the gun shell as they cannot compress properly. The sooner people stop using stacks of springs and go out and find a single spring with enough power the better.

The original 32mm PVC/Bathplug Triple shot of mine had a huge spring load - the stock TS and a huge custom spring - however because the ID of the custom was way larger than the OD of the stock, they nested nicely when compressed. Your LS+LS v2 combo is getting in the way of each other, I mean nesting springs is bad, but nesting springs of very similar dimensions? retardation.

My 1st TS when singled, got 150'+ (verified by Adelaide crew) and failed only due to catch rounding, not Shell problems, as I reinforced the shit out of that shell.... Phuong/Little bro



Great work other AJ haha, this looks beast! also noticed you've taken on board the advice I gave you in regards to the 25mm plunger Alpha trooper, that will be sweet!

Aj

-Aj- wrote:
My 1st TS when singled, got 150'+ (verified by Adelaide crew) and failed only due to catch rounding, not Shell problems, as I reinforced the shit out of that shell.... Phuong/Little bro
Aj

Yeah, you reinforced the shit out of shell, we didn't. Catch is the main problem in this equation. LS + LS v2 from phuonguyen's 6inch UPVC 16mm Barrels was easily getting 150ft+ too. Can be verified by Joey and myself. Believe it or not. I'll believe you Aj on this one... the TS plunger is fukn ridiculous when done right. Especially since you've replaced it.

The catch would only 'occasionally' go for full draw length and when that happens, shit starts flying. Primed only 2 'clicks' the dart could easily hit 40-50ft. It was that air tight.

Hey Aj. I was thinking you could probably make a new trigger for the triple shot similar to the RFSG. The stock plunger already has the 'under notch' where something can go under. If you could pull that off.... put like an over 9000kg spring in it and it won't break the catch (sarcasm over the internet btw...).

Just to add, I do agree that the quadshot is easily one of the cheapest and greatest guns any 'new' guy could buy and make. You can basically make a stubby nosed / sawn off quadshot for $35 and it'll shoot at least 60-70ft with the stock spring.

Great work SS. Expect a commision soon.

-Aj- wrote:My 1st TS when singled, got 150'+ (verified by Adelaide crew) and failed only due to catch rounding...

littlebro05 wrote:Catch is the main problem in this equation.

It seems there's is a solution that requires a simple yet overlooked technique: Pull the trigger while priming, then release when desired draw length is achieved.

As fussy as it may sound, it may be the only way to ensure good longevity to the Shot Gun/Triple Shot/Quadshot with its catch design flaw.

-Aj- wrote:Great work other AJ haha, this looks beast! also noticed you've taken on board the advice I gave you in regards to the 25mm plunger Alpha trooper, that will be sweet!

Yep, just need to figure out the dimensions for the "Rainbow-catch" setup and the bolt. You already know that I'm planning to make a plunger layout very similar to Split's/louiec3's Long Strike encased in a replica M4 retractable stock, oh yeah...

littlebro05 wrote:Just to add, I do agree that the quadshot is easily one of the cheapest and greatest guns any 'new' guy could buy and make. You can basically make a stubby nosed / sawn off quadshot for $35 and it'll shoot at least 60-70ft with the stock spring.

Indeed, as already exemplified in my intro.

matt.chopper wrote:Great work SS. Expect a commision soon.

Expect me to make a request for you to fabricate some parts for my planned "direct-plunger" Alpha Trooper, if you can pull it off that is...

Otherwise, cash lol.

SilentScope wrote:Expect me to make a request for you to fabricate some parts for my planned "direct-plunger" Alpha Trooper, if you can pull it off that is...

Otherwise, cash lol.

Should be able to do it. Just Pm me details when the time comes.

I can't access the link to nerfhaven as I don't have an account, could someone please add the mod from there to this or another thread?

Bacara wrote:I can't access the link to NerfHaven as I don't have an account, could someone please add the mod from there to this or another thread?

NerfHaven website is down at the moment because they got hack really bad the guy who did it turn NerfHaven upside down in a bad way.

Now that why the link you are talking about will not work.

KingCam wrote:Now that why the link you are talking about will not work.

Speak English, please...

Bacara is referring to the BadWrench/Zorn method of re-orientating the catch torsion spring. I'm sure some of the layout pictures will give an idea on how to do it.

Cool, peoples?

I think KC is trying to say that NH has been hacked (as most of us are aware), and the site is still down.

They do have a low-fi version, which you can access for their modifications etc. Unfortunately, there's no search function...

Here's the link:

http://btrettel.nerfers.com/nharchive/