Recon Jamming? Finally fixed my own problem!

Well quiet some time ago I had some problems with my modded Recons and threw them on the backburner. When I opened it up my padding was sucked halfway up the barrel and I couldn't prime my blaster. My O-ring had expanded as well (Nerf uses pretty cheap o-rings).

Well I thought it was just some simple fix and just making sure I use a decent glue to keep my padding down and replace the o-ring. I was just about to screw it all back together when I tried an open-shell test prime. It seamed a bit jerky and I almost brushed it off. Thankfully I decided not to let sleeping dogs lie and I finally worked out what the problem is.

Easiest fix in history!



You'll see in the picture I have circled the angled, spring-loaded rail guide tooth. There is where the problem lies. I noticed that the lowest side of the angle stops flat on the entry, rather than angled (like it does new/unmodded). This may be due to over use of the flimsly spring beneath it being over stretched and pushing it up too far. I couldn't be bothered undoing the two springs so decided a nice stanley knife slice at the same angle making sure that the entry is met by the intended angle (rather than an obtrusive flat T) and problem solved!

My two Recons don't jam at all anymore. This has got to be the easiest mod, quiet possible it's useful for many other blasters too. Why wait for you blaster to jam? Get out your stanley knife and make the fix before the problem can occur

The onyl time I've had an O ring expanded is if I use the wrong lubicrant. My Recon has never jammed 'lolzz" maybe when there was a bad dart.

I had the same problem with my Recon. I figured that it was happening because the padding i had used for my plunger was too thick. Funnily enough I fixed it in the same way as Mohrlock, but I used a sanding bit in mu Dremel. I think I have also read somewhere that this piece is not really necessary to the working of the gun and can be removed entirely (Tho I'm not 100% sure).

Its A Lock

Sounds sweet and all, but how exactly does this stop the jamming problem?

Ok, I'll have a go at this And I'll try to make as much sense as I can without access to pics.

First of all, the lock is there to stop you from sliding the breech open once the blaster has been primed.

In the pic in the OP you can see a square lump of plastic pushing on the wedge shaped lock. If the padding that you put into the plunger is too thick then the plunger can't come forward enough to press this wedge down and it can't slide under the lower plunger guide (the one that is part of the case).

Once you cut/sand the lock down, the lock will slide under the lower plunger guide without the plunger pushing down on it. Therefore you will be able to pull the slide back even when the blaster is primed.

I hope this explains things and isn't too confusing.

Would It Be Easier To Just Undo The Screws On The Boltsled And Take The Whole Assembly Out Its Easier And Requires Less Tools

I believe you can remove it, but like I said earlier, I'm not 100% sure.

You Can I've Done It On All My Reverse Plunger Guns

I take it de-priming it would simply be the same process as priming it? Just making sure

Well you could remove it altogether but it does help keep the rail in place. Removing it would add further wear and tear to your blaster. I don't think having to use a stanley knife to remove some plastic constitues as needing too many tools. You'd need a small screwdriver in lieu of a blade to remove it as those screws are ridiculously small.

Either way, take it or leave it, you're all welcome to your opinion but in my opinion I think this would be preferential over removing the "lock" piece.

And holdentem, nice use of capitalisation there buddy