The Questions Thread.

I've used similar epoxies at elevated temps in the past. You can find all sorts of hacks to warm it up as it cures.

For example, since I've never seen/used an epoxy that sticks to polyethylene and the like, what I do is wrap it in some cling wrap to stop it from dripping everywhere and put it on top of my laptop power supply. It's an older one so it's fairly big and gets fairly warm. The down side is that if you have a large area where the epoxy is exposed it'll take the shape of the cling wrap, including any folds/creases.

Or now that it's winter, a suitable heater may also suffice if you can find a good location.

238232 wrote:I've used similar epoxies at elevated temps in the past. You can find all sorts of hacks to warm it up as it cures.

For example, since I've never seen/used an epoxy that sticks to polyethylene and the like, what I do is wrap it in some cling wrap to stop it from dripping everywhere and put it on top of my laptop power supply. It's an older one so it's fairly big and gets fairly warm. The down side is that if you have a large area where the epoxy is exposed it'll take the shape of the cling wrap, including any folds/creases.

Or now that it's winter, a suitable heater may also suffice if you can find a good location.

Power wastage is another issue.
I know if i ran any sort of heating device for 2-3 days i would end up in the gallows in my household.

Good point on the power issue. My laptop power supply is only useful because it's on for most of the day/night if I'm running stuff.

Wait until summer then stick it in a small greenhouse?

238232 wrote:Good point on the power issue. My laptop power supply is only useful because it's on for most of the day/night if I'm running stuff.

Wait until summer then stick it in a small greenhouse?

I dont have that long really
I think ill just stick to normal methods

Kind of a long shot but for anyone who has modded a wipeout with spring compression what did you use because I can't find anything.

Try some form of pipe, you'll just have to experiment with size but I'd start with 12mm alu the work up from there until I found the right size.

I used clear vinal tubing, but any form of pipe that fits tightly/securely will work. Make it as long as possible for the best result. There is a point where the pipe is too long that the plunger can't get back far enough to catch. Just be on the very edge of this point and your Wipeout will be epic

So I have a nerf Hornet that was firing 2ft ranges (if that), then I opened it up and pluggled the pump and pryed out the AR pegs and closed it back up. I pumped the gun 30 times and pressed the big button. Fine. Then I cocked it and pumped another 30 times and pressed the trigger multiple times but every time i pressed it, the air would only come out of the first barrel for about 20 clicks. What is wrong? someone please help.
The piece highlighted is cocked forward then what is meant to happen is as i pull the trigger, it comes back but it keeps returning forward after I pull the trigger.

melbnerf619 wrote:The piece highlighted is cocked forward then what is meant to happen is as i pull the trigger, it comes back but it keeps returning forward after I pull the trigger.

You've got it ass about face - Push the slide forwards, then backwards to original location. The orange barbed rod allocates which barrel tubing vents, which then propels the dart. Seriously though, opening and modding a Hornet is not for the faint-hearted!!

Back-pressure valves are hideous!! And that valve isn't much better, the Spider/Venom DTG version was quite good though.

What does ERTL and RSFG stand for?
I figured out that PAS stands for pump action shotgun?

ERTL is the brand name - now known as Outdoor Sportsman.

RFSG = Rapid Fire Shotgun

clunk07 wrote:

melbnerf619 wrote:The piece highlighted is cocked forward then what is meant to happen is as i pull the trigger, it comes back but it keeps returning forward after I pull the trigger.

You've got it ass about face - Push the slide forwards, then backwards to original location. The orange barbed rod allocates which barrel tubing vents, which then propels the dart. Seriously though, opening and modding a Hornet is not for the faint-hearted!!

Back-pressure valves are hideous!! And that valve isn't much better, the Spider/Venom DTG version was quite good though.

I do Cock it forward and back as you should but I didn't touch anything eles and it was working fine before but now air is pushing that mech forward every time it's meant to go back. I know how it works but i just don't know why it is doing this.

Maybe you have an air leak then - really not much else I can help you with. I had a similar problem with mine, and no one here had any ideas either.

Turned out that 3 of the 6 back-pressure tanks weren't sealing properly...

It now sits in pieces in a box in the corner!!

Thanks for that Clunk. At least the big buttons are pulling of 80ft ranges

Yeh, it's not hard to hit that range with plugged pump

I've been trying a few things but nothing works, how do YOU guys take out the pin that holds the LS boltsled and plunger together?

TooBz wrote:I've been trying a few things but nothing works, how do YOU guys take out the pin that holds the LS boltsled and plunger together?

You're probably not putting enough umph into it. If you've used a screw driving the same diameter as the pin, you grab a hammer and tap it out. I usually put my foot on the plunger tube to hold it in place on CARPET (so it doesn't slide). Grab the hammer and screw driver and smash it out until at least 3mm or so of it is out. Get some pliers, twist and pull to get it out.

littlebro05 wrote:

TooBz wrote:I've been trying a few things but nothing works, how do YOU guys take out the pin that holds the LS boltsled and plunger together?

You're probably not putting enough umph into it. If you've used a screw driving the same diameter as the pin, you grab a hammer and tap it out. I usually put my foot on the plunger tube to hold it in place on CARPET (so it doesn't slide). Grab the hammer and screw driver and smash it out until at least 3mm or so of it is out. Get some pliers, twist and pull to get it out.

Well its half way out.. Just having problems with using the pliers to take them out

Gentle twist and pull or use side cutters to LIGHTLY grip the pin and lever it out

Hi guys, new to the forums but been into Nerf for a while. Just wondering if this is a good deal?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150607843487
I can't find this gun anywhere & I heard they are really good to single? Any help would be awesome!

If you can't find them, then yes. You'd now be expected to pay $65+ for one these days.

I use a pin pumch to knock out the retaining pin in the boltsled.

I've routed a piece of timber to allow the sled to sit in it nicely, so that it doesn't move, and the pin can drop all the way out when you're tapping. If you're competently skilled, this can also be done with the open jaws on a vice.

If it's half-way out, spray a little lube in the locating hole, gently tap the pin back in a bit, grab the pin with pliers, and gently twist it out...

Is there any Nerf RSS feeds?

If so, could you link me to them?

I have recently been thinking about replacing the spring in my LS, how ever I have some things I need to clear up.Does replacing the spring over power the gun and snap the bolt sled? What spring is the best for LS spring replacement? If you could help me out here I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Scout

Scoutluvsu wrote:I have recently been thinking about replacing the spring in my LS, how ever I have some things I need to clear up.Does replacing the spring over power the gun and snap the bolt sled? What spring is the best for LS spring replacement? If you could help me out here I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Scout

Big button, left-hand top of the screen, called search....

If you want medium power go for NF + LS. If you want good power go for LS + TS and if you want great power go for the LS Black tactical v2 spring alone. If you want heaps of power go for LS V2 and LS spring. The RoF changes depending on your strength and what ever you do, use this writeup to rehinforce your boltsled. http://www.oznerf.com/t2051-write-up-longshot-boltsled-reinforcement

What barrel length should I use for a NF (using inf0rm3er's PETG and blue foam) and for a spring, the V2 BT one or the other NF BT spring?

random guy wrote:What barrel length should I use for a NF (using inf0rm3er's PETG and blue foam) and for a spring, the V2 BT one or the other NF BT spring?

Well, generally speaking, Version 2 is an upgrade on Version 1...

As for barrel length, why not try out a few different lengths. No one can tell you what size will be the best for your particular blaster, and darts...

But just as a rough indication, I would not go more than a quarter of a foot.

Xoenz wrote:But just as a rough indication, I would not go more than a quarter of a foot.

no more than 3 Inches? In my NF i've got 5 inches and 80' ranges and very accurate.

Yeah, 3" is too short. I think I have 4.5" or something close, but mine shoots up..? The darts seriously come out of the barrel and shoot a foot higher than where I aim.

Mozart wrote:Yeah, 3" is too short. I think I have 4.5" or something close, but mine shoots up..? The darts seriously come out of the barrel and shoot a foot higher than where I aim.

That happens to me too but I use the stock barrel. Why does it do that?

No clue. For you, probably because there's no actual barrel, the dart's sticking out the end when you fire it. There's no path for it to take, so it comes out and goes where it goes.

Probably didn't explain that very well, or at all. I'm very tired, sorry.

My barrel is actually 3 3/4". Had to measure it.

What can I use to cut PETG. I heard from someone that you can use a hobby knife. Should I use that or something else?

random guy wrote:What can I use to cut PETG. I heard from someone that you can use a hobby knife. Should I use that or something else?

Scissors.

- Brad