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So a trip down to the local Bunnings then?
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The Questions Thread.
Vavoom- Posts : 84
Join date : 2011-04-28
Age : 38
Location : Sydney
Benjiman- Posts : 26
Join date : 2011-05-12
Age : 33
Location : Geelong, Vic
Cheers guys, just getting some theory thoughts out there to see if I should bother before I start messing around.
238232- Posts : 203
Join date : 2010-12-17
Age : 35
Location : Sydney
Benjiman wrote:Hey guys random question, couldn't seem to find it in the search tool, would filling in some of the dead space in a reverse plunger system do anything.
I mean theoretically dead space is a minuscule pocket of air which would get compressed by the plunger system closing around it but the actual space it fills doesn't change, which I'm guessing would release the compressed air from the nozzle at a lower rate than say a space 1/4 of the size because of the room the plunger has for the air pressure to equalize before escaping.
Any thoughts or feedback, am I somewhat onto something or am I just plain wrong here?
This might be a useful thread, some gains reported but not as much as the OP claimed:
http://www.oznerf.com/t2564-25m-80-recon-mod-should-work-with-all-other-reverse-plunger-blasters
clunk07- Administrator
- Posts : 2953
Join date : 2011-02-02
Age : 44
Location : Blackwater, Queensland
@Vavoom - you're much better off reinforcing the end of the plunger tube with a suitable washer and some decent epoxy adhesive.
Vavoom- Posts : 84
Join date : 2011-04-28
Age : 38
Location : Sydney
Really? I always thought washers were fairly hard things and the point of plunger padding was to absorb and slow the impact of the plunger onto...well whatever the plunger is hitting.
clunk07- Administrator
- Posts : 2953
Join date : 2011-02-02
Age : 44
Location : Blackwater, Queensland
You epoxy the washer to the outside of the plunger tube, reinforcing the stress points where the plunger head hits from the inside.
With the AR's removed, the plunger tube and plunger head hit together quite hard, eventually causing the end of the plunger tube to break/tear off. The washer and epoxy strengthen the weak points of the plastic tube.
With the AR's removed, the plunger tube and plunger head hit together quite hard, eventually causing the end of the plunger tube to break/tear off. The washer and epoxy strengthen the weak points of the plastic tube.
TheTrueMcMuffin- Posts : 87
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 30
Location : Perth, WA
Hi there,
Was wondering what the best barrel material for my singled Titan firing inform3r's blue foam and stock streamlines would be.
Thanks
Tom
Was wondering what the best barrel material for my singled Titan firing inform3r's blue foam and stock streamlines would be.
Thanks
Tom
Psykka- Administrator
- Posts : 439
Join date : 2010-08-20
Age : 34
Location : Melbourne, Preston
TheTrueMcMuffin wrote:Hi there,
Was wondering what the best barrel material for my singled Titan firing inform3r's blue foam and stock streamlines would be.
Thanks
Tom
Depends what kind of clip system you are using I guess. I like conduit for inline clips.
TheTrueMcMuffin- Posts : 87
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 30
Location : Perth, WA
I'm not planning to do a clip of any sort, was just looking for a sliding breech.Psykka wrote:TheTrueMcMuffin wrote:Hi there,
Was wondering what the best barrel material for my singled Titan firing inform3r's blue foam and stock streamlines would be.
Thanks
Tom
Depends what kind of clip system you are using I guess. I like conduit for inline clips.
Mozart- Posts : 622
Join date : 2011-04-24
Age : 31
Location : Burnie, TAS
Go for brass or PETG, man. With mine, I have PETG nested in 20mm conduit at the moment. No slide breech, just a coupler and that barrel. I also have a 15" barrel. I have good information that a 1' barrel is best for accuracy and a 2' barrel is best for range. With calibrated darts, of coarse.
Good luck (:
Good luck (:
TheTrueMcMuffin- Posts : 87
Join date : 2010-11-16
Age : 30
Location : Perth, WA
Cheers, thank you very much I found that 9/16 brass in 2' does wonders in my Titan, so I'll stick to that I think. PETG is very similar to 9/16 brass?Mozart wrote:Go for brass or PETG, man. With mine, I have PETG nested in 20mm conduit at the moment. No slide breech, just a coupler and that barrel. I also have a 15" barrel. I have good information that a 1' barrel is best for accuracy and a 2' barrel is best for range. With calibrated darts, of coarse.
Good luck (:
clunk07- Administrator
- Posts : 2953
Join date : 2011-02-02
Age : 44
Location : Blackwater, Queensland
TheTrueMcMuffin wrote:Cheers, thank you very much I found that 9/16 brass in 2' does wonders in my Titan, so I'll stick to that I think. PETG is very similar to 9/16 brass?Mozart wrote:Go for brass or PETG, man. With mine, I have PETG nested in 20mm conduit at the moment. No slide breech, just a coupler and that barrel. I also have a 15" barrel. I have good information that a 1' barrel is best for accuracy and a 2' barrel is best for range. With calibrated darts, of coarse.
Good luck (:
PETG is slightly better than 9/16 brass in my opinion. Alot cheaper if nothing else. My Titan Icarus has a 2ft barrel of petg, nested in 20mm conduit. 200ft+ flat, and 400ft+ angled. You can't really argue with those statistics!!
Mozart- Posts : 622
Join date : 2011-04-24
Age : 31
Location : Burnie, TAS
Brass is better machined, but it does ho up in 32nds of an inch. If your dart size doesn't quite fit perfectly in one of them, tough. PETG works well for me most days, I don't know why some days it's loose.. But seriously, clunk's on the money, it costs barely any. I think Informer will sell you a 2' piece for $1.10, which goes to 20' of it for $11. For 20' of brass, you'll pay.. At least a hundred bucks, more like $130.
PETG is cheap and wicked! Use it, it's good! Hahaa.
PETG is cheap and wicked! Use it, it's good! Hahaa.
Echoes- Posts : 433
Join date : 2010-11-04
Age : 33
Location : Bass Hill, Sydney, NSW
Needing replacement screws for the shell of my AT. I lost a the ones in the handle and have no idea what size they're meant to be. Does anyone know what size they are, and/or where to purchase them?
littlebro05- War Organiser
- Posts : 2533
Join date : 2009-07-07
Age : 31
Location : Brisbane Boi!
Echoes wrote:Needing replacement screws for the shell of my AT. I lost a the ones in the handle and have no idea what size they're meant to be. Does anyone know what size they are, and/or where to purchase them?
You generally can't purchase those screws so what I would do is find them from other blasters. I usually only have 5-8screws in each blaster because I'm too cheap.
Dietzie- Posts : 361
Join date : 2010-10-30
Age : 40
Location : Granville, Queensland
Not meaning to contradict you littlebro but you can buy the screws. Any hobby store should have them for RC cars. Tamiya screws come in the same sizes and threads.
littlebro05- War Organiser
- Posts : 2533
Join date : 2009-07-07
Age : 31
Location : Brisbane Boi!
Dietzie wrote:Not meaning to contradict you littlebro but you can buy the screws. Any hobby store should have them for RC cars. Tamiya screws come in the same sizes and threads.
Hey man, nothing wrong with correcting me if I'm wrong. I never knew that lol. Although do tamiya screws use 'phillip's head' screw drivers though? That's my question for this thread lol.
Dietzie- Posts : 361
Join date : 2010-10-30
Age : 40
Location : Granville, Queensland
Yes they are phillips heads and if you are feeling really flash you can get anodized titanium screws
I always be cautious about correcting people due to getting a few smacks in the face from people who can't admit they are wrong lol
I always be cautious about correcting people due to getting a few smacks in the face from people who can't admit they are wrong lol
littlebro05- War Organiser
- Posts : 2533
Join date : 2009-07-07
Age : 31
Location : Brisbane Boi!
Dietzie wrote:Yes they are phillips heads and if you are feeling really flash you can get anodized titanium screws
I always be cautious about correcting people due to getting a few smacks in the face from people who can't admit they are wrong lol
Hey man! I'm only like that sometimes :P. That's confusing, some guy told me he didn't have the right tools to open Nerf guns because he had different screwdriver sets. Are there like different screws that are used in RC cars that can't be removed with conventional screw drvers?
Echoes- Posts : 433
Join date : 2010-11-04
Age : 33
Location : Bass Hill, Sydney, NSW
Thanks for the info guys. I might look into Tamiya screws :). Probably have to go to Hobby Co. while I scrounge up some brass...
Dietzie- Posts : 361
Join date : 2010-10-30
Age : 40
Location : Granville, Queensland
littlebro05 wrote:Dietzie wrote:Yes they are phillips heads and if you are feeling really flash you can get anodized titanium screws
I always be cautious about correcting people due to getting a few smacks in the face from people who can't admit they are wrong lol
Hey man! I'm only like that sometimes :P. That's confusing, some guy told me he didn't have the right tools to open Nerf guns because he had different screwdriver sets. Are there like different screws that are used in RC cars that can't be removed with conventional screw drvers?
All my RCs have been phillips head apart from my 1/8 nitro which had some hex bolts
Benjiman- Posts : 26
Join date : 2011-05-12
Age : 33
Location : Geelong, Vic
Sometimes rc models have areas that aren't "supposed" to be modded which tend to use tamperproof torx bits which are a 6 sided "star" pattern with a central nub that can only be used with the exact bit. Tidbit of info there.
Bacara- Posts : 216
Join date : 2010-06-30
Age : 29
Location : Bomaderry/Nowra NSW
What's the better barrel material for blue foam, 16mm conduit or PETG? Also, what's the average value of a clear mav?
melbnerf619- Posts : 711
Join date : 2011-01-22
Age : 27
Location : E-Hills Melbourne
Defiantly PETG because it is designed for the blue foam and based on some research $20-$25 for clear mav.Bacara wrote:What's the better barrel material for blue foam, 16mm conduit or PETG? Also, what's the average value of a clear mav?
TheBradl3s- Moderator
- Posts : 512
Join date : 2010-06-28
Age : 28
Location : The Awesome Adelaide!!!!!!! Rank: Goblin Welder
melbnerf619 wrote:Defiantly PETG because it is designed for the blue foam and based on some research $20-$25 for clear mav.Bacara wrote:What's the better barrel material for blue foam, 16mm conduit or PETG? Also, what's the average value of a clear mav?
PETG isnt designed for blue foam... You high bro?
Anyway, Conduit for a tigher fit and PETG for a looser fit.
Personaly prefer Conduit for springers and Conduit for airguns
But PETG works well in airguns about 16"
- Brad
melbnerf619- Posts : 711
Join date : 2011-01-22
Age : 27
Location : E-Hills Melbourne
TheBradl3s wrote:melbnerf619 wrote:Defiantly PETG because it is designed for the blue foam and based on some research $20-$25 for clear mav.Bacara wrote:What's the better barrel material for blue foam, 16mm conduit or PETG? Also, what's the average value of a clear mav?
PETG isnt designed for blue foam... You high bro?
Anyway, Conduit for a tigher fit and PETG for a looser fit.
Personaly prefer Conduit for springers and Conduit for airguns
But PETG works well in airguns about 16"
- Brad
Bacara- Posts : 216
Join date : 2010-06-30
Age : 29
Location : Bomaderry/Nowra NSW
So what about if I was looking for a barrel material for my tripleshot? PETG or conduit?
gooni- Posts : 385
Join date : 2010-07-17
Age : 47
Location : Adelaide 5039.SA.AU.... Rank: Ghetto King
Bacara wrote:So what about if I was looking for a barrel material for my tripleshot? PETG or conduit?
Straight barrel, or breeched ? conduit is good for non breeched barrels, where PETG is great for making breeches.
Gooni.
jacko1120- Posts : 197
Join date : 2008-12-18
Age : 30
Location : Goldie
Can someone post a picture of the 3 day glue used to glue brass breeches.
I have been unable to find any and would like to know what im looking for.
Most are all 5 minute ones
I have been unable to find any and would like to know what im looking for.
Most are all 5 minute ones
gooni- Posts : 385
Join date : 2010-07-17
Age : 47
Location : Adelaide 5039.SA.AU.... Rank: Ghetto King
Google is your friendjacko1120 wrote:Can someone post a picture of the 3 day glue used to glue brass breeches.
I have been unable to find any and would like to know what im looking for.
Most are all 5 minute ones
Gooni.
jacko1120- Posts : 197
Join date : 2008-12-18
Age : 30
Location : Goldie
gooni wrote:Google is your friendjacko1120 wrote:Can someone post a picture of the 3 day glue used to glue brass breeches.
I have been unable to find any and would like to know what im looking for.
Most are all 5 minute ones
Gooni.
Do you know how long i spent looking for that...
Thanks man.
EDIT: notice it says max bond strength is achieved when applied above 40 degrees Celsius
Psykka- Administrator
- Posts : 439
Join date : 2010-08-20
Age : 34
Location : Melbourne, Preston
Interesting. Does it mean the whole curing time or when you first apply it? A blow dryer would do for that.
jacko1120- Posts : 197
Join date : 2008-12-18
Age : 30
Location : Goldie
For the duration of the cooling it says.Psykka wrote:Interesting. Does it mean the whole curing time or when you first apply it? A blow dryer would do for that.
It does also mention that between 40-100 degrees it cures quicker and stronger.
A low heat oven maybe?
ElementGuy- Posts : 140
Join date : 2011-01-26
Age : 25
Location : Adelaide, Tea Tree Gully
Does it mean farenaheit (spelling?)
jacko1120- Posts : 197
Join date : 2008-12-18
Age : 30
Location : Goldie
No, i mention Celsius in an earlier post.ElementGuy wrote:Does it mean farenaheit (spelling?)
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