The Questions Thread.

Ah yes, the second thing that 238232 posted was what I was after. They certainly look awesome!

redcricket077 wrote:

Vavoom wrote:Few more.

What does RSCB stand for?
Why would I want to single a gun?
What is a coupler and what's the point of it?
Is a +bow and actual thing that a company sells or do you have to make one from scratch?

I think RSCB stands for the initials of the people who came up of it.
Adding a coupler allows you to do many things. It's sort of a universal adapter. You can add barrels, RSCBs, hoppers etc
+bow is a crossbow. You can make it yourself (Usually done) or buy a Nerf Crossbow (almost impossible). Like I said +bow is just short for Crossbow.

Actually, +bow actually stands for PLUS bow. When people are referring to the Nerf Crossbow, they usually shorten it by using the letter X, as in X-Bow. The Plus Bow is a homemade that was orignally made by a member of NerfHaven called Captain Slug. Recently a member of our very own OzNerf (TheBradl3s) has created a Plus Bow but using Australian materials. The Plus Bow was inspired by the Nerf Crossbow.

The main reason you would want single a blaster is to pump the maximum range you could from it. Sometimes it is worth it, most times it's not. Sometimes people even single blasters because they think it's cool.

EDIT: I was unaware people had already posted more things on the thread, sorry.

Do note that +bows are banned in most wars. So please don't bring one to a Sydney War if you get one

What is the difference between an sm1500 and an sm3000
and which is better?

The chances of you getting one are minimal and even if you do it'll cost you a fair bit.

As for the difference I would imagine it like the AT2K - AT3K series, similar but slightly different.

You're looking at 85-130 dollars

i really just wanted to know the differences. I know how much they cost and i can get both for the same price and just wanted to know the differences and modding abilitites.

It jammed as if the plunger tube was catching on a spring coil. I've never had a problem with a dart loading improperly meanwhile. The way it jammed was I had cocked the gun , sliding the foregrip all the way back and then all the way forward again and then it wouldn't go back again. So I muscled it back so it would fire. The only other time I've seen this happen was on my first AT where i put it back together wrong and the plunger tube kept getting caught on the spring. This new gun has never been opened. I've put probably 300 rounds through it since I bought it.

what I want to know is firstly am I doing damage by forcibly pulling the slide back to unjam it, secondly what should be done to prevent this problem in the future, thirdly, should I just expect this every so often, fourthly, am I SOL, fifthly, is this really a big deal at all?

thanks very much for your input.

Please direct any questions of a general nature to the Questions Thread. It makes it easier and quicker to receive an answer. Although questions relating to modification or homemades should be posted in their respective forums. phuonguyen

Might be a one off. I it happens frequently, pull it apart and check everything is in place properly. If that doesn't work, pull it apart and post pics of everything.

melbnerf619 wrote:i really just wanted to know the differences. I know how much they cost and i can get both for the same price and just wanted to know the differences and modding abilitites.

Alot more people prefer the SM1500 to the SM3000 just because of style, modding capabilities and overall. I don't have either myself and the Australian community does not have a lot of vintage blasters, so the information you can get from us is very little. I can't think of anyone who would say the SM3000 is better then the SM1500.

Darth Lai wrote:

melbnerf619 wrote:i really just wanted to know the differences. I know how much they cost and i can get both for the same price and just wanted to know the differences and modding abilitites.

Alot more people prefer the SM1500 to the SM3000 just because of style, modding capabilities and overall. I don't have either myself and the Australian community does not have a lot of vintage blasters, so the information you can get from us is very little. I can't think of anyone who would say the SM3000 is better then the SM1500.

Speak for yourself mate, there's quite a few members on here with vintage blaster's. For example, I think SS has been collecting/modding blaster's for a decade...

Cheers,

Darth Lai wrote:

melbnerf619 wrote:i really just wanted to know the differences. I know how much they cost and i can get both for the same price and just wanted to know the differences and modding abilitites.

Alot more people prefer the SM1500 to the SM3000 just because of style, modding capabilities and overall. I don't have either myself and the Australian community does not have a lot of vintage blasters, so the information you can get from us is very little. I can't think of anyone who would say the SM3000 is better then the SM1500.

clunk07 wrote:Speak for yourself mate, there's quite a few members on here with vintage blaster's. For example, I think SS has been collecting/modding blaster's for a decade...

Cheers,

I'm going to put my money with Darth Lai on this one; I understand that personal opinions from local members are far more useful, however the fact of the matter is that the Nerf culture was very niche at the time when the two blasters were released. I'd be hard pressed to find anyone here in Australia who would have both the SM3000 (yes, the blue version was available in TrU back in the heyday) and SM1500 (think -Aj-) today to give any insight of the issue, let alone the very few from the US.

Really, the only thing melbnerf619 should do is the one thing we should all try to encompass: self-learning and research.

Also, I have only owned a few vintage blasters. I'll only speak up if they are mentioned.

SS, I wasn't saying that you had either of the blaster's mentioned.

Just responding to the comment about vintage blasters, no actual models in particular.

Here's a question:

So why hasn't anyone put an inline mag on a 4 barreled TS to make an easier octo-shot? Or maybe even a hexadeca-shot? :p

mister_elliott wrote:Here's a question:

So why hasn't anyone put an inline mag on a 4 barreled TS to make an easier octo-shot? Or maybe even a hexadeca-shot? :p

Check in the pictures thread. I'm sure SS made the same thing out of a hand cannon.

Then again, octo-shots are coooool.

What are the positives/negatives to vacuum loading, specifically in Nite Finders?

SydneyNerfer wrote:What are the positives/negatives to vacuum loading, specifically in Nite Finders?

Vacuum load just looks awesome. But in a gun with a longer barrel attachment, it saves you having to load it from the back of the barrel. With my singled Triple Shot/20mm conduit attachment, I just put the whistlers into the tip, load it back, and it vacuum loads

But my Alpha Trooper vacuum loads sometimes, and it has caused jams because it's sucked it in too far in the back. So it's probably not recommended in clip system darts. But for 'front loading' darts, it's desirable

What size conduit do i get to rebarrel a NF?

LostBoy wrote:What size conduit do i get to rebarrel a NF?

My 16mm conduit it the best barrel for a NiteFinder.

2120 wrote:

SydneyNerfer wrote:What are the positives/negatives to vacuum loading, specifically in Nite Finders?

Vacuum load just looks awesome. But in a gun with a longer barrel attachment, it saves you having to load it from the back of the barrel. With my singled Triple Shot/20mm conduit attachment, I just put the whistlers into the tip, load it back, and it vacuum loads

But my Alpha Trooper vacuum loads sometimes, and it has caused jams because it's sucked it in too far in the back. So it's probably not recommended in clip system darts. But for 'front loading' darts, it's desirable

My PAS is phenomenal for vacuum-loading. 2 foot barrel, and I actually had to put a stopper in made of 1/2" brass, to prevent it sucking all the way back in to the plunger tube. It really does make it quite useful with reloading time - not as quick as a clip-fed system, but probably as quick if not faster than my rear-loading Armageddon...

potentially stupid question:

if the only mod I do to an otherwise stock clip-fed gun are using better lube, how much will it increase performance?

spacephrawg wrote:potentially stupid question:

if the only mod I do to an otherwise stock clip-fed gun are using better lube, how much will it increase performance?

Nothing at all. It will prevent you from having to replace the o-ring for a while. And it will waste some of your time, other than that - no performance increase.

Thanks and thanks for your patience with my ignorance.

spacephrawg wrote:Thanks and thanks for your patience with my ignorance.

No problems, the only stupid question is the one that isn't asked!!

Thanks. It has been my experience on various forums that some of my stupid question threads get flamed and then deleted or locked. "USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION OR GTFO" etc. While they are right, such things can be a barrier to learning if one has had bad luck searching for something.

Ok another silly question: Eventually I intend to do cosmetic mods to my gun. I'm guessing it would be most prudent to make it so, if need be, I can still disassemble the thing if something goes wrong. Wise or pointless? Thanx again

yeh mate, you're going to want to be able to pull the blaster apart. If for nothing else, just to be able to perform routine maintenance (lube o-ring etc).

I just read on a nerf blog that after some months the Alpha Trooper's range performance decreases and can be prone to sometimes jamming, where the foregrip jams in the forward position. The blogger said that the jamming can be fixed by either pulling hard or hitting the gun on something, which I'd rather not do. This is unfortunate. Do other nerf guns decrease in performance over time? Whats to be done about it, assuming I'm holding off on mods until Orange Mod Works in the US comes out with a metal internals kit for it (should be out in July they say).

Is this par for the course? Just how much does a nerf gun's performance decrease over time? Is it to be blamed on the darts or the spring?

Am I asking too many questions for one post in this thread? Thanks again. I Didn't intend to monopolize this thread.

SydneyNerfer wrote:What are the positives/negatives to vacuum loading, specifically in Nite Finders?

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that vacuum-loading capabilities are an indication of how well the plunger seal is.

Silent Scope wrote:

SydneyNerfer wrote:What are the positives/negatives to vacuum loading, specifically in Nite Finders?

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that vacuum-loading capabilities are an indication of how well the plunger seal is.

Yup; NF seals are great.

I just added some duct tape under my O-ring, and my NF vacuum loads, no new barrel or anything.

Ups: Don't have to load the dart as much, faster reloading.

Downs: Some people find it hard to get a good seal.

The up for vacuum loading is that it makes it a lot faster to reload, especially if you've replaced the barrel, making it long enough to need ram rodding. If you can vacuum load a dart, it means you have a really nice seal, like SS said. Very air tight, which will give better performance.

There are no downs really, except that you have to make a dart stop in the blaster or barrel, so it doesn't suck the dart into the plunger tube. I did that on my PAS and had a good old laugh.

I have also noticed that if I prime the blaster with a dart in the barrel, it gets sucked into the dart stop a bit. Bit weird, guess it's just a very strong vacuum.

Mozart wrote:The up for vacuum loading is that it makes it a lot faster to reload, especially if you've replaced the barrel, making it long enough to need ram rodding. If you can vacuum load a dart, it means you have a really nice seal, like SS said. Very air tight, which will give better performance.

There are no downs really, except that you have to make a dart stop in the blaster or barrel, so it doesn't suck the dart into the plunger tube. I did that on my PAS and had a good old laugh.

I have also noticed that if I prime the blaster with a dart in the barrel, it gets sucked into the dart stop a bit. Bit weird, guess it's just a very strong vacuum.

Probably happens because the darts shrink so much where you are. Using a piece of 1/2" brass, I have no dramas up this way.

Might be right, man.

So, I just paid $9.50 each for two tubes of epoxy putty. Seriously, there has to be a cheaper way?

How can i convince my friend that nerf isnt S**t?

Shoot him with your best gun, then tell him he can do the same to other people at wars.

ElementGuy wrote:Shoot him with your best gun, then tell him he can do the same to other people at wars.

I shot him in the eye once, dont know if that counts..