The Questions Thread.

How do you do a standard pump replacement for a bbumb? How do you connect the new pump to the airtank?

EDIT: Also what does the "dual action" part of dual action bike pump mean?

You cut it just after the one way valve at the end of the pump stroke and if i were you, i'd glue the 2 parts together since there's nothing holding them in. Also one way to fill that massive gap and make it airtight is to use different lengths of PVC or reducers and figure out from there or the ghetto version which is using hot glue which may interupt with the one way valve though so be carefull. Also, i forgot to mention the best tube to use is 6mm Vinyl tubing from bunnings and epoxy that into the tank and then the pump of choice.
Hope it helped.
-James
EDIT: the dual action part is when both pump strokes count as 2 pumps as in when you pull the pump, it adds air, when you push the pump, it also adds air.
-James

ElementGuy wrote:EDIT: Also what does the "dual action" part of dual action bike pump mean?

Air gets pushed out on both the in and out strokes of the pump.

melbnerf619 wrote:You cut it just after the one way valve at the end of the pump stroke and if i were you, i'd glue the 2 parts together since there's nothing holding them in. Also one way to fill that massive gap and make it airtight is to use different lengths of PVC or reducers and figure out from there or the ghetto version which is using hot glue which may interupt with the one way valve though so be carefull. Also, i forgot to mention the best tube to use is 6mm Vinyl tubing from bunnings and epoxy that into the tank and then the pump of choice.
-James

Or, another way is like this:

Stock:



Modified:



Section of PVC pipe and end-cap replaces the original piping. Brass barbed fitting for connecting vinyl tubing. PVC has been glued with pressure-rated pvc cement, as well as JB Weld. Brass barb glued in place with 72-hr araldite.

This is still a WIP, but the tank has a 100% air seal, which is the main thing. I'm still yet to decide on pump type, RSCB/hopper/breech etc, and it will be a while until I get back to it. Should yield some nice ranges though, as it's probably added around an extra 125% air capacity from stock.

Cheers,

hey guys ive modded both my recon and my mates raider yesterday by taking out the AR and they both shoot way harder now but they shoot darts not very straight at all they either fish tail all over the place and end up vering off in one direction or just swinging away to one side is this a common thing with streamline darts? or does the barrels need to be replaces , or is this just unavoidable cheers .

Thats just the nature of StreamLine darts.
For better and more accurate darts see here: http://www.oznerf.com/t2991-inf0rm3r-s-ordering-system-blue-pink-foam-silicone-snap-tips-petg

cheers Dietzie ill give it ago

Alrighty, more questions about some modding tools. For soldering, I've found a 15w solder from dick smith, and a 6w solder from jaycar. Which would be better suited for nerf modding? Also, the cheapest rotary too from bunnings is the UX1 one for $20, is this sufficient for nerf mods? As you might notice, I'm tight on cash so am going for the cheapest possible options.

godspeed - definitely go for the 15w soldering iron. A 6w iron would be painfully slow with thicker wires etc.

Cheers,

Godspeed_22 wrote:Also, the cheapest rotary too from bunnings is the UX1 one for $20, is this sufficient for nerf mods?

I suggest that you pony double that for at least an Ozito.
Sure a Dremel is a even higher tier product but it will come at a greater cost, but there are plenty of us here who satisfied with just the Ozito.
After all, I just need something that spins fast with a bit of grunt, and long term durability isn't an issue (only using it for small jobs).

The UX1 runs on 12V (via power adapter), so the power ain't that great.

(Pic from Internals Directory)

My Trooper is now shooting 5m, and I am having to slam the handle back extremely hard to prime the trooper. It has a BT spring upgrade.

So, any suggestions on how to proceed? Removing the lock removes my ability for the plunger to catch properly, for some reason.

Yes, everything else is aligned.

mull wrote:

Godspeed_22 wrote:Also, the cheapest rotary too from bunnings is the UX1 one for $20, is this sufficient for nerf mods?

I suggest that you pony double that for at least an Ozito.
Sure a Dremel is a even higher tier product but it will come at a greater cost, but there are plenty of us here who satisfied with just the Ozito.
After all, I just need something that spins fast with a bit of grunt, and long term durability isn't an issue (only using it for small jobs).

The UX1 runs on 12V (via power adapter), so the power ain't that great.

i agree, love my ozito rotary tool

and to make it more awesome, use the dremel attachments kit

Apologies in advance if these questions have already been answered, but your Google custom search thing just gives me "no threads found" for my query, so if these threads exist, your search is broken. Also some of the pages linked in the "rules" thread don't exist any more.

Anyway, I purchased a couple of reflex sights and while they both almost fit the tac rail, neither fits snugly. I'm curious as to whether anyone has any suggestions as how is best to secure the scopes to the rail, I'd rather not glue them on.

Also, I have some questions about where to buy vinyl dye in Victoria, I've only been able to find "vinyl paint" so far, and so far what I've read tells me that stuff is different to dye. I figure making two threads at the same time is a bit spammy so I'll just ask that in this one, unless you guys think making a new thread for that is a better idea.

Thanks in advance guys.

For future reference mate, there is a questions thread. Questions should be asked there for best results.

On a side note, there are 2 search options. The google search, and a search tab. The search tab, searches internally amongst the forum for posts and topics about desired keywords.

Psychosis

Swatsonia wrote:My Trooper is now shooting 5m, and I am having to slam the handle back extremely hard to prime the trooper. It has a BT spring upgrade.

Did you trim the shell? I seem to remember that the spring is sometimes a bit too large for the stock shell.

Yes, shell has been trimmed.

Will try with the stock spring later tonight, to eliminate that possibility.

I do believe after looking for hours (literally) that the lock is the culprit.

Super Cheap Auto is the best place to try for Vinyl Die, some specialist hobby shops may have it.

Psychosis wrote:For future reference mate, there is a questions thread. Questions should be asked there for best results.

On a side note, there are 2 search options. The google search, and a search tab. The search tab, searches internally amongst the forum for posts and topics about desired keywords.

Psychosis

Thanks, the Q's thread wasn't mentioned in any of the "READ FIRST" posts so I wasn't aware.

redcricket077 wrote:Super Cheap Auto is the best place to try for Vinyl Die, some specialist hobby shops may have it.

Yeah I read on another site they might have it, but my local one only has "Vinyl Paint" which I'm pretty sure is different stuff. There are a couple of others nearby though, so I might go investigate. I wish their website wasn't so useless.

Quite true, the website is very useless. Anyway, is it for a normal paintjob? Don't think Vinyl Paint would be too bad?

redcricket077 wrote:Quite true, the website is very useless. Anyway, is it for a normal paintjob? Don't think Vinyl Paint would be too bad?

I've heard that vinyl dye colors the plastic instead of coating it, I've had bad luck with paint chipping on props I've created before and I'd really like to avoid that. The blasters aren't going to be used for nerf, they're props for a short film, but they will be handled a lot and not with a great deal of care, so I'd like an undercoat that isn't going to rub off.

Check out the thread "painting a nerf" brilliant indepth information in there

Sairex wrote:

mull wrote:

Godspeed_22 wrote:Also, the cheapest rotary too from bunnings is the UX1 one for $20, is this sufficient for nerf mods?

I suggest that you pony double that for at least an Ozito.
Sure a Dremel is a even higher tier product but it will come at a greater cost, but there are plenty of us here who satisfied with just the Ozito.
After all, I just need something that spins fast with a bit of grunt, and long term durability isn't an issue (only using it for small jobs).

The UX1 runs on 12V (via power adapter), so the power ain't that great.

i agree, love my ozito rotary tool

and to make it more awesome, use the dremel attachments kit

I had a Ozito for 4 weeks then it Broke so I took it back and swapped it for a Dremel 300 and I love it well worth the extra money

Psychosis wrote:Check out the thread "painting a nerf" brilliant indepth information in there

Do you have a link? I'm not sure if it's just me or if the search function in this forum just sucks.

redcricket077 wrote:Super Cheap Auto is the best place to try for Vinyl Die, some specialist hobby shops may have it.

You can also get Vinyl die from Auto barn, My local shop has all the colors but 2.

Here you go

http://www.oznerf.com/t2810-paint-brands-on-nerf-guns

Also http://www.oznerf.com/t3294-visual-guide-to-blaster-painting

Just a suggestion, Tamiya Spray Paints for Plastic are really good too.

Painting Nerf is all about the prep work. Sand the shell properly, and you won't have any issues. Vinyl dye is brilliant if you just want a single coloured paint scheme.

Takes me 8 hrs to paint a LongShot, and I still can't guarantee that paint won't chip off if not handled properly. Plastic really wasn't meant to be painted...

Try looking for either 3M, VHT or K&S branded vinyl dye/paint. If the can says it's suitable for car dashboards, bumpers etc, then you've got the right stuff.

Rustoleum universal spray paint also works, and is available from Bunnings.

I doubt you'll find it anywhere other than a hardware or auto parts store.


@Swatsonia - I've had this same issue with an AT and BT spring before. Have you tried leaving the black adapter for the stock off? That worked with mine. It seems that the pressure on the shell from this piece prevents the catch from being effective. Side-note, oznerfnerd's RP spring upgrade kit from ebay didn't have this issue when I put it in my AT.

Cheers,

Godspeed_22 wrote:Alrighty, more questions about some modding tools. For soldering, I've found a 15w solder from dick smith, and a 6w solder from jaycar. Which would be better suited for nerf modding? Also, the cheapest rotary too from bunnings is the UX1 one for $20, is this sufficient for nerf mods? As you might notice, I'm tight on cash so am going for the cheapest possible options.

As Clunk said, go for the 15w. But I'd still buy at Jaycar- they have better service for spare tips etc. Also, if your planning on doing a lot of soldering, it's worth forking out for a 40w+ station like I did. I don't know how I lived without it now...

clunk07 wrote:Painting Nerf is all about the prep work. Sand the shell properly, and you won't have any issues. Vinyl dye is brilliant if you just want a single coloured paint scheme.

Is it difficult to paint over dye?

You could paint over it, but the shades won't appear the best they can if the colour underneath is similar. I've heard many times though, that if you put vinyl dye on something, it ain't coming out

@Deckard:

Painting over the top of vinyl dye is no different than painting over normal paint, when it comes to the shade of the final colour.

You can only use acrylic paint over the top of vinyl dye, enamel paint won't stick. This is all covered in the paint brands thread.

Sorry, but I'm in a bit of a hurry to go in to massive detail. Send me an email to clunkweaponsco@hotmail.com if you want some more info, and I'll deal with it after work tomorrow morning.

Cheers,

Has anyone RSCBed a ShotBlast and what were the results?

lefty wrote:Has anyone RSCBed a ShotBlast and what were the results?

According to jerm781, an AT3K tank is very similar in size compared to a ShotBlast tank. Alot of 'RSCB AT3Ks' have been modified in the past, so I guess I see why not. I would use orange conduit as my 'clip' part of the gun though since it has less dead space.

littlebro05 wrote:

lefty wrote:Has anyone RSCBed a ShotBlast and what were the results?

According to jerm781, an AT3K tank is very similar in size compared to a ShotBlast tank. Alot of 'RSCB AT3Ks' have been modified in the past, so I guess I see why not. I would use orange conduit as my 'clip' part of the gun though since it has less dead space.

Thanks Littlebro I did see his video but still had trouble. I have found the problem a leak in the system!!! Now firing 35+m at ten pumps