The Questions Thread.

It's clip fed, they will jam from time to time.

So it is perfectly normal for a Praxis to always curve right near the end of it's 'flight'
and occaisionally mis-fire

are there any write-ups on singling a longshot? I've seen many with CPVC but since there isn't any, anyone here got one?

Nope, you'll have to figure it out yourself. Australian people tend not to single them in the first place.

Ungmon wrote:So it is perfectly normal for a Praxis to always curve right near the end of it's 'flight'
and occaisionally mis-fire

Mine doesn't do that. The Praxis' have been known to be prone to error. If you have your receipt, maybe you should return it and get another one.

Is it possible to reach 100ft with a longshot, without a brass breach? If so, how? and with what darts?

Thanks.

Simply by getting a good air seal and a tonne of springs. Not really a good idea, just get a brass breech.

Singled LS - Tape under O-Ring - K26 or Bt V2 Spring - Sili Darts = Range of???

(Sight.. why don't you first try it out? This is getting tedious)

To indulge you, I'd say 80 feet flat with a BT LSV2 spring, from my experiences.

I'm all for being helpful, but 2120 is right. We're here to help, but we're not going to spoon feed information that none of us probably don't even know.

If you really want to take the initiative, get off your backside and test it out for yourself... that's what modification is all about, venturing into the unknown to see what you can get out of it.

Yeah sorry about that, I'm just trying to add up the pro's and con's in my head. But all good now, you wont be hearing anymore.

Does anyone have a picture of what bit to remove in a longstike so i can de-prime the blaster?

Yo boys I was just wondering, is it bad in any way to de-prime you longshot by holding the priming bar, pulling the trigger than slowly moving it back foward?

@Ungmon

Absolutely not, that is the best/only way to do it.

@Sir

Just Google a Longstrike modification guide and follow that. Be sure that the modder is experienced though, don't believe some kid on Youtube. : )

I was also just wondering how bad is it lube your guns with vaseline?
because a put a generous amount in my plunger tube and a little bit on the black piece that within the plunger tube
So on a scale of 1-10 one being bad and 10 being good how is it

It's hard to judge on a scale but generally it's not a good idea. There are many, many better ways to do it. Do a quick search and you'll find more than enough methods to suit your liking.

I did it to my Alpha Trooper catch, when it wasn't catching properly, and it worked fine. Vaseline worked well, although unsure of how healthy it is to plastics.

That's exactly where you run into problems, Vaseline is a no-go on O-rings. A great method that I use (Suggested and discovered by Littlebro05) is mixing silicone spay with fix-a-tap O-ring lube from Bunnings.

On O-rings, what about the catch? It's plastic last time I checked

I'm sure you could just Google it but either way, it's easier just to use plastic/O-ring safe lubricants so that you don't mess something up in the long run. Trust me, it's worth it.

Unknown wrote:I'm sure you could just Google it but either way, it's easier just to use plastic/O-ring safe lubricants so that you don't mess something up in the long run. Trust me, it's worth it.

Agreed.

So do you think my Longshot will be ok or should I wipe it off and add somethig else.

Also I cut my longshot's bipod off and followed the mag angle (exactly the cut for the LSFG intergration) and I can see the a crack at the dart tooth zone (I already sealed off the main gap with he tactical rail) any ideas on how I can cover the dart tooth gap?

I would give it a good clean and replace it with some plastic safe lubricant, just to be safe, but that's just me.

And if you could post up a photo that would be very helpful as I can't understand what your saying in that last part. If you wan't to cover a gap just slap something flat on there for a quick fix. (Plastic, cardboard, alu sheet, etc.)

Hey all.
I'm having trouble with my bbb. I put a k26 in it but it keeps pushing back through the hole in the back of the plunger tube. Now I gather I need to tighten that hole a bit or expand the end of the spring but am not sure what my best option may be.
All ideas welcome.

The easiest method would be to flare out the end of the spring with a pair of pliers. Alternatively you could glue a Metal washer at the base making the ID smaller.

This is mainly for Unknown .. Found this on the OMW website

Q. Why do you recommend using Vaseline to lubricate the rubber seals in my blaster? Everyone knows it will dissolve them!

A. While petroleum-based products will dissolve natural rubber, latex, and neoprene, but the O-rings in your blaster are typically Buna-N (nitrile) rubber. Petroleum jelly does not interact with this rubber in a negative manner. Petroleum jelly is easier on the skin, which is good for the many younger kids who may be using our guide. We will concede, however, that silicone or lithium grease are the superior choices.

Ungmon wrote:

Q. Why do you recommend using Vaseline to lubricate the rubber seals in my blaster? Everyone knows it will dissolve them!

A. While petroleum-based products will dissolve natural rubber, latex, and neoprene, but the O-rings in your blaster are typically Buna-N (nitrile) rubber. Petroleum jelly does not interact with this rubber in a negative manner. Petroleum jelly is easier on the skin, which is good for the many younger kids who may be using our guide. We will concede, however, that silicone or lithium grease are the superior choices.

I clearly said, multiple times, that silicone was a better choice and that Vaseline is not recommended because it will ruin many types of rubber. Am I not correct?.

Neoprene washers are also used in many modified blasters and in that case Vaseline will ruin them. You're better off with silicone anyway.

How do you guys reckon I should cover this gap up in my longshot

without interfering with the dart tooth movement



ALSO since I moved my tactical rail from the top of my longshot to the bottom of my longshot there are a few problems...

If I attatch the rail the normal way then I will be unable to use it because part of the gun is blocking it off as shown here


Also if I attatch it the normal way then the screw ports will be messed up because the rail was origionally upside down (very confusing).

The only way to attatch it in such a way that I can still use it is by sticking it on in the wrong way. However doing this will disable the use of the little orange peg that clicks in my attatchment.

If I attatch it the right way
Pros
-I can still use the orange peg

Cons
-Screw ports messed up
-Hard to attatch
-Hard to detatch

If I attatch it the wrong way
Pros
-Easy to put on
-Easy to take off
-Screw hole will be fine

Cons
-Disable the use of little orange peg

What would you guys do? I just want a second opinion

With the gap problem, i suggest gap filler or hot glue.

I'm going to make a quadshot using PEGT as barrels. What lenght should they be for use with streamlines.

Streamlines don't work in PETG, not with springers at least.

Try 16mm conduit from an electrical store.

I was talking to foamsports and they said it should work...anyone else confirm this?

Not doubting you unknown just seen others use it.

Let's just say you won't get the 'best results' out of PETG.

QUESTION ... but I don't know if anyone can really help...

Bought a Capture the Flag kit from eBay (unavailable locally in Tassie... don't know about the rest of Aussie though)

Basically it works... but not well enough. It's supposed to set off an alarm when it moves. My friend has one and it's a lot more sensitive than mine is. For his, you sneeze in the general direction of it and it goes off.

Mine? You'd be lucky if it wakes up if you're running full-pelt arms swinging like crazy. I've opened it up and it seems to be the 'sensor' which activates the siren is in the top part where the start/stop button resides. But I can't see any way of getting in there; no screws, not even any glue, just wedged into the end cap piece. I can't pry it out no matter what I do.

It's more sensitive to touch the sensor directly (ie: poking it firmly, but doesn't need to be all that forceful)rather than moving it. I've tried shoving a few screws / nuts in there so when it shakes around it responds more... but no luck. The best luck I had was to leave the 'head' of it unmounted from the main shell, and let it hang by the cables connecting it to the switch... which isn't ideal because over time that will ruin the cables and not work at all =_=

Does anyone know either how to get into it, and/or how to make it more sensitive to activate?

If no-one can help or suggest otherwise, I guess I'll just have to tear it open with my dremel and hope I don't completely ruin it... buying another whole capture the flag kit isn't really an option unless someone wants to sell me one cheap and works? XD

Can I just use silocine spray rather than gel
if not why not?