The Questions Thread.

If you can get it for that price, then go for it, might as well give it a whirl. Where I live, it's closer to $3 a can at the dollar stores.

That Vinyl stuff is great but terribly expensive, ranging from $10-$14. After a day or two the paint soaks into the plastic. A very, very light sand and wash are needed.

Wow thats expencive to you guys?? I spend like $60 on paint alone and about 30 hours of prep beforehand mainly because I like my art to last and look vibrant.

What did you use for your guns that I saw at the war?
Do I need to apply a clear coat if I use that Australian Export Paint?
Also where should I get hand paint?

Ungmon wrote:What did you use for your guns that I saw at the war?
Do I need to apply a clear coat if I use that Australian Export Paint?
Also where should I get hand paint?

In my experiance the best handpaint is from games workshop. Use the citadel paints.

-James

Does It require a clear coat?
Does the australian export paint require a clear coat?

If it's not vinyl dye, it will require clear coat to prevent chipping.

Is it possible to get a clear coat that dosen't add a glossy coat?

Ungmon wrote:Is it possible to get a clear coat that dosen't add a glossy coat?

Yeees....I remember my dad using Testor's Dullcote for warhammer models, it leaves a matte (read as: non-glossy) finish. Look up something like that

Is this a clear coat suitable for Nerf applications or should I be looking for something different?

Alrighty but just asking has anyone have experience with Australian Export spray paint?
If you use it clunk, tell me how it went. Do they sell any fakes?
because Im probably going to buy it from the asian shops but not to be racist they usually sell low queality things or fakes so, what do you think?

Where did you find that clear coat unknown? Have you used it.

Thanks for your guys help

Ungmon wrote:Alrighty but just asking has anyone have experience with Australian Export spray paint?
If you use it clunk, tell me how it went. Do they sell any fakes?
because Im probably going to buy it from the asian shops but not to be racist they usually sell low queality things or fakes so, what do you think?

Where did you find that clear coat unknown? Have you used it.

Thanks for your guys help

you are asian... also its not a good idea, bunnigns sells thoes paints.

Ungmon wrote:Alrighty but just asking has anyone have experience with Australian Export spray paint?
If you use it clunk, tell me how it went. Do they sell any fakes?
because Im probably going to buy it from the asian shops but not to be racist they usually sell low queality things or fakes so, what do you think?

Where did you find that clear coat unknown? Have you used it.

Thanks for your guys help

I've used them, I painted an entire recon and its fine, it will require proper preparation, it does go runny in a heavy coat tho.



I personally use a mixture of games workshop, army painter and tamiya paints.

Hey Kungfunerfer what did you use to paint your LS jam door 'gears of war' thingy that was an EPIC paintjob but when you let me feel it, it was kinda sticky also how much does bunnings sell the australian export paint for?

Ungmon wrote:Hey Kungfunerfer what did you use to paint your LS jam door 'gears of war' thingy that was an EPIC paintjob but when you let me feel it, it was kinda sticky also how much does bunnings sell the australian export paint for?

Last time I checked it was $4-5
Super Cheap Auto usually have sales where they go for $7-10 for 4 cans, I just go to the $2 shop and its $4

Thanks for the help also

evozn wrote:I just go to the $2 shop and its $4

Lol thats funny logic

It was sticky because I haddnt put the clear coat yet, if your going to the war on the 15th ill bring the full shell.

When clear coat is applied does it leave any texture? Does it feel just like a normal nerf gun?

Well unless you use vynil dye it will feel like plastic but when you apply a clear coat it feels like paint... but if you apply it properly it kinda feels smooth but not plastic,

What paints do you use and what clear coat

Just so you know, Australian Export is an enamel paint, so it has a self gloss finish, I mostly use acrylic paints which require a top clear coat if you want to use it. If you are smart you can hand paint one over the other in very thin coats but it will go tacky and take weeks to dry. If you try to spray it on from the pressure pack it will react and you will end up with one of a few unwanted effects (crazy cracking, blistering etc.) Export enamel cans flow well, coverage is low and they dont go very far. I use power plus paint for all my guns, (sanding then plasti prime to start with) i can do an entire gun with one can with lots left over for hand painting. Acrylic paints also dry ALOT faster and clean up is alot easier, you will also find that it takes to dying alot better as well.

I use plasti-kote, an acrylic paint, so I used an acrylic laquer.

Where do you get your acrylic paint and how much is price? do you have to prime it cant you just sand?

I got my stuff from bunnings, i spent like $60 on paint LOL yeh I dont use my works of art thats why,and you dont need to prime it but it does help a little.

What brand pictures of the stuff you used if possible please.

Yay 100 posts!

Sorry I only have this ancient camera that still uses film...

Lol Ok names of brands please?

When re-barreling a NF, do you use conduit or a coupler?





EDIT: 400th post.

What? We're talking about paints.

Or did my computer muck up and miss a whole load of posts

This is a questions thread, it's not specificity for painting.

Joker wrote:When re-barreling a NF, do you use conduit or a coupler?





EDIT: 400th post.

Hmm..I don't quite understand your question...
Do you mean directly attaching the barrel on to the plunger tube or coupler? Or something else?

Either way, coupler is the way to go.

Joker, are you joking?
Nah, just joking.
You coupler the nf, then you can use the conduit or what ever barrel material you choose.

Ungmon wrote:Alrighty but just asking has anyone have experience with Australian Export spray paint?

[snip]

because Im probably going to buy it from the asian shops

Just curious how are you able purchase paint, doesn't NSW have prohibition laws relating to sales of spray paint to minors?

Regarding the Aussie Export paint, I've been using the semi-gloss (and matte) black paints for ages it's okay considering how much it costs, it's lack of the toluene & xylene (solvents) would be a benefit when used on plastics

Well his parents could get it for him. Thats propably how most under 18s here get it.

Calico wrote:Just so you know, Australian Export is an enamel paint, so it has a self gloss finish, I mostly use acrylic paints which require a top clear coat if you want to use it. If you are smart you can hand paint one over the other in very thin coats but it will go tacky and take weeks to dry. If you try to spray it on from the pressure pack it will react and you will end up with one of a few unwanted effects (crazy cracking, blistering etc.) Export enamel cans flow well, coverage is low and they dont go very far. I use power plus paint for all my guns, (sanding then plasti prime to start with) i can do an entire gun with one can with lots left over for hand painting. Acrylic paints also dry ALOT faster and clean up is alot easier, you will also find that it takes to dying alot better as well.

I've never had acrylic paint dry quicker than enamel, unless you're referring to vinyl dye, which definitely is the quickest to dry, but it can remain soft for up to a week. I can spray a whole camo blaster in a day using enamel paint, but it takes up to 3 weeks using Ironlak/Molotow Acrylic. All paint jobs, regardless of vinyl dye/acrylic/enamel should have at least 3 coats of clear, and up to 6 coats on areas that are handled often. Just remember, excess lacquer sprayed over white paint will turn yellow, so it's best to spray lacquer in extremely thin coats. Spiderweb/orange peel are direct results from poor prep work/too many layers of paint sprayed too close together, without adequate drying time. Check out my paint thread - 90% of the blaster's have been painted with Export Enamel. Alternatively, ask any of the 20 member's who have purchased blaster's from me with custom paint. I'm sure they'll attest to the quality of Export paint. Understand though, that it takes me up to 5hrs to prep a LongShot for priming, which a lot of people don't have the dedication/patience to spend that much time sanding. That's the main difference between a crap PJ, and a quality PJ.

I'm definitely not arguing with you Calico, as your RF20 PJ is awesome, which we've already discussed. Just sharing a different opinion.

The FAQ section has a good tutorial on how to paint a blaster. Alternatively, check out this thread on paint brands/types:

http://www.oznerf.com/t2810-paint-brands-on-nerf-guns

Ungmon wrote:Where do you get your acrylic paint and how much is price? do you have to prime it cant you just sand?

I suggest you prime every blaster, unless you're using Vinyl Dye. Remember, you can have a cheap and nasty PJ, and be unhappy, or you could put in the extra effort, and have a PJ that you're proud of. Check the above link on paint brands, and research a bit more. The best acrylic paint you can get will come from grafitti supply shops - you're next bet would be Tamiya plastic paint from hobby store's. Expect to pay quite a lot of money though.

Seriously, my opinion, spend the time doing the sanding/prep work, follow Phuong's guide from the FAQ section, and use cheap enamel paint and primer. Just take your time, and you should be fine.

Cheers,