The Questions Thread.

I may have this wrong, but I'm fairly sure that windy conditions won't contribute a lot to fish-tailing. It's more to do with drag and velocity of the dart travelling at high speed.

clunk07 wrote:The extra weight is definitely helpful.

I used digital kitchen scales to weigh mine, although I had to use 10 darts at a time to get an accurate reading.

Agh why a good idea!

I tried weighing a single snap cap and it flickered from 1 the back to 0 grams not giving a reading.

clunk07 wrote:@ Xoenz - Get a 4 x AA holder as everyone else has suggested. You're best be is to hard-wire the 4 x AA holder though.

Should I solder it or use alligator clips?

Xoenz wrote:

clunk07 wrote:The extra weight is definitely helpful.

I used digital kitchen scales to weigh mine, although I had to use 10 darts at a time to get an accurate reading.

Agh why a good idea!

I tried weighing a single snap cap and it flickered from 1 the back to 0 grams not giving a reading.

clunk07 wrote:@ Xoenz - Get a 4 x AA holder as everyone else has suggested. You're best be is to hard-wire the 4 x AA holder though.

Should I solder it or use alligator clips?

Soldering is obviously harder, but will yield the best results. Make sure to rough up the terminals on the battery sled with a file/dremel etc, so that the solder has something decent to stick to. Take your time, and make sure you have a good solder joint, otherwise you'll end up with more issues.

clunk07 wrote:

Xoenz wrote:

clunk07 wrote:The extra weight is definitely helpful.

I used digital kitchen scales to weigh mine, although I had to use 10 darts at a time to get an accurate reading.

Agh why a good idea!

I tried weighing a single snap cap and it flickered from 1 the back to 0 grams not giving a reading.

clunk07 wrote:@ Xoenz - Get a 4 x AA holder as everyone else has suggested. You're best be is to hard-wire the 4 x AA holder though.

Should I solder it or use alligator clips?

Soldering is obviously harder, but will yield the best results. Make sure to rough up the terminals on the battery sled with a file/dremel etc, so that the solder has something decent to stick to. Take your time, and make sure you have a good solder joint, otherwise you'll end up with more issues.

But can i use alligator clips?

What does improving the seal on the nitefinder do?

And

What does hot glueing the Nitefinder rod's gaps do?

A) Increases range by making it almost air tight so that no air is lost or wasted and all go out the barrel.

B) Not worth it in my opinion but it is down to reinforce the rod so that it does not bend or snap. As long as you pull the rod strait and do not pull up on it in an upwards direction you should be fine.

LostBoy wrote:What does improving the seal on the nitefinder do?

And

What does hot glueing the Nitefinder rod's gaps do?

Improving seal= less air lost beore reaching dart. More air= better range

Hot glueing the rods strenghthen it. Its also lighter than epoxy puttying it. I'venoticed that with my NF and c368 spring, the rod is wobbly and very unstable, hotglueing helped.

Unknown wrote:A) Increases range by making it almost air tight so that no air is lost or wasted and all go out the barrel.

B) Not worth it in my opinion but it is down to reinforce the rod so that it does not bend or snap. As long as you pull the rod strait and do not pull up on it in an upwards direction you should be fine.

Thanks man.

EDIT: What do i seal it with..?

Lol. You don't seal it. It already as a seal (plunger head & oring).

But you can improve this seal by replacing or adding another oring, adding teflon tape under the oring to push it up and create a tighter seal by pressing against the plubger tube, and also lube.

Lube helps ALOT in providing a smooth moving, air tight plunger.

Xoenz wrote:Lol. You don't seal it. It already as a seal (plunger head & oring).

But you can imprive this seal by replacing or adding another oring, adding teflon tape under the oring to push it up and create a tighter seal by pressing against the plubger tube, and also lube.

Lube helps ALOT in providing a smooth moving, air tight plunger.

Allright, thanks dude.

What would be the ranges?

There are too many variables for us to consider making it impossible to give you exact ranges, however from personal experience I can tell you this:

A C-836, brassed, 99% airsealed (I.E. almost perfect) NF can reach up to 80ft at a normal shooting angle.

Allright, thanks again.

clunk07 wrote:I may have this wrong, but I'm fairly sure that windy conditions won't contribute a lot to fish-tailing. It's more to do with drag and velocity of the dart travelling at high speed.

I came up with that hypothesis because when I tested this morning in better conditions, fishtailing was minimal. There was some with my BBUMB but not to the extent where it's rendering the blaster ineffective in a battle situation.

I'm just gonna give a heads up warning with the C836. Unless you reinforce other parts of your NF it'll severely shorten the lifespan.

I've had my NF for nearly a year - with a C-836 and it's going strong. Never the less reinforcement is always good. I suggest using epoxy putty on the screw ports holding the plunger in.

Another remedy for the c836 is to use washers underneath those screws and not to tighten them up too tightly. Tightening them too much will cause the plastic to become compressed and crack, leading to all the major problems associated with the c836.

What are the ways of reinforcing a plunger tube?
I need/want as many ways as possible because I'm a bit nervous about putting in a stronger spring in my gun.

Pretty much what I said in my above post, but coat the little tabs with epoxy.

Xoenz wrote:

clunk07 wrote:

Xoenz wrote:

clunk07 wrote:The extra weight is definitely helpful.

I used digital kitchen scales to weigh mine, although I had to use 10 darts at a time to get an accurate reading.

Agh why a good idea!

I tried weighing a single snap cap and it flickered from 1 the back to 0 grams not giving a reading.

clunk07 wrote:@ Xoenz - Get a 4 x AA holder as everyone else has suggested. You're best be is to hard-wire the 4 x AA holder though.

Should I solder it or use alligator clips?

Soldering is obviously harder, but will yield the best results. Make sure to rough up the terminals on the battery sled with a file/dremel etc, so that the solder has something decent to stick to. Take your time, and make sure you have a good solder joint, otherwise you'll end up with more issues.

But can i use alligator clips?

I suppose you could, but I would imagine it would be a bit of a hassle.

clunk07 wrote:*snip*

I suppose you could, but I would imagine it would be a bit of a hassle.

Also, alligator clips have a tendency to come off at rather inopportune times. Especially if they're attached to something like a flat tab where they can't really get any kind of grip.

Fair enough.

I'll see to it that I'll get the holders and get my dad to borrow and solder it on.

Thanks bros.

What's the best lubricant around the plunger and the o-ring?
Bought some lithium grease, the same evening I open my modded Reflex (2nd day bought) and lo and behold the o-ring is as stretched out as a hooker's genitalia

I have started to use this stuff. After using the silicon spray made by WD40 that killed my o-rings.



It is silicon oil, used in RC car shock absorbers. I haven't had any trouble with it. You can find it at any good hobby store.

Gooni.

2120 wrote:What's the best lubricant around the plunger and the o-ring?
Bought some lithium grease, the same evening I open my modded Reflex (2nd day bought) and lo and behold the o-ring is as stretched out as a hooker's genitalia

I like your analagy LOL.

I use H4000 Silicone Spray Food Grade. Hasn't expanded the O-Ring since.

Hmm.. very different to what I use. I use something very similar to this. I wonder if it's okay


gooni, how much do those things cost you? They seem to be in small quantities, whilst the 3 in 1 silicone spray I bought has lasted me for about 2 months, and I've been using it on nerf guns like hairspray

2120 wrote:Hmm.. very different to what I use. I use something very similar to this. I wonder if it's okay


Gooni, how much do those things cost you? They seem to be in small quantities, whilst the 3 in 1 silicone spray I bought has lasted me for about 2 months, and I've used it on Nerf guns like hairspray

This is what I use.


This is what it said's on the tube.
LO-CHLOR Hydral-Slip Lubricant, Prevents Rubber Expansion, Especially suitable for O-Rings,Seals,Hinges and Rollers,Valves,Diaphragms,All Perishable Rubber and Automatic Pool Cleaners.

It made by LO_CHLOR CHEMICALS in Nsw.

2120 wrote:Hmm.. very different to what I use. I use something very similar to this. I wonder if it's okay


gooni, how much do those things cost you? They seem to be in small quantities, whilst the 3 in 1 silicone spray I bought has lasted me for about 2 months, and I've been using it on nerf guns like hairspray

3 in 1 silicon spry is a no no. I used it and it expanded my BBUMB and maverick oring.

Would shorting the longshot scope, wreck the scope?

This is my lube. $5.50 from bunings, Works well.

LostBoy wrote:Would shorting the longshot scope, wreck the scope?

ROFL, the longshot scope don't work, shoot it all you like.



Cam, where did you get that stuff from, and @ 2120, the stuff I use $6-$8 or there abouts.

Gooni.

gooni wrote:Cam, where did you get that stuff from,

I found it in my dads shed.

I Google it and here the link I got.
http://www.lo-chlor.com.au/clean_hydraslip.php

So try a pool shop for it.

There are different types of 3 in 1 silicon spray, so don't rule out all possible types. I've been using a 3 in 1 for 4 months, and had no issues with o-rings. I've just upgraded to using silicon grease designed for flashlights.

Also, just remember that products advertising it's safe for o-rings may not necessarily be useful for our applications. Nerf o-rings are made of different materials than standard industrial o-rings.

I always try a new product out on stock maverick o-rings - easy to replace, and easy to check/replace.

Anyone know if Kmart will accept laybys on their latest catalogue? Specifically on a Stampede?

Standard layby amount is 10%, right?

The standard rule for laybys is that if it's not on clearance, and you can bring the item to the layby area and you pay 10% of the item and $3 fee.

I can't prime my Alpha trooper after mods.

What is the problem at hand?

cr0_b0y wrote:I can't prime my Alpha trooper after mods.

What is the problem at hand?

oh man, could be plenty of things lol. the best way is to check your internals with a photo from google. Maybe this one from the NerfSG forums


For me, all too often it's been the horizontal bar that the trigger hits to release the catch. Anyway.. trust me when I say you'll learn alot from opening and closing it over and over again