The Questions Thread.

Excuse the dodgy paint drawing, but this is where I'm looking at notching it out. The darts are brand new blue foam, and are dead straight. They fit inside the 19/32 perfectly, but they seem to be tipping on their nose even when in the clip. Alot of times when they clip/jam, the dart has rotated 180 degrees, with the tail facing out the barrel...

Yeh, once I get this dart-clip sorted, I've got orders for at least 2. Was thinking about even trying to hock a couple on ebay - just for shits n giggles really. Wouldn't make much profit, but would be nice to make a few dollars out of my "hobby"

If you notch it there won't you lose your seal? Or are you getting your 19/32 to slide over the 9/16 by more than 2-3mm?
Mine only overlap by 2-3mm and it's enough for the perfect seal

I've got about a 5mm overlap, if not a little more. As long as I don't go crazy, it should still seal fine. I was also thinking of cutting that same part at a slight angle, from the bottom to where the half-pipe starts. It looks like SgNerf does similar on his breeches.

I really don't think alignment is an issue, but I will definitely check how well the dart sits in the 19/32. It may need a light sand and polish - it certainly can't hurt anyway.

What should I use to cut brass, a hacksaw, a dremel with a normal cutting disk, dremel with a steel cutting disk or something else?

Dremel with reinforced fiber cutting disk. Hacksaw might squish the brass, and the metal/diamond cutting disk fails..

random guy wrote:What should I use to cut brass, a hacksaw, a dremel with a normal cutting disk, dremel with a steel cutting disk or something else?

Hacksaw is fine as long as you are careful and allow some extra for file finishing. Fiber disk is better though

Side note to what the others have said: Pipe cutters are quick and easy, but they will bend the end of the tube. Depending on what exactly you're cutting, this may or may not be acceptable.

Xoenz wrote:Dremel with reinforced fiber cutting disk. Hacksaw might squish the brass, and the metal/diamond cutting disk fails..

I agree with Xoenz. That's the disc I use and it cuts through brass like butter. Although just watch out if it gets to hot, the disc will break.

littlebro05 wrote:

Xoenz wrote:Dremel with reinforced fiber cutting disk. Hacksaw might squish the brass, and the metal/diamond cutting disk fails..

I agree with Xoenz. That's the disc I use and it cuts through brass like butter. Although just watch out if it gets to hot, the disc will break.

Ahh thats a question that i've been meaning to ask, how long until the disk becomes hot a breaks?

Personally i'm scared of it breaking so every 5 seconds i let it spin freely for another 5 seconds before resuming

Thanks for the massive amount of replies so fast!

Xoenz it depends on what you're cutting. The more friction between the disk and material the hotter the disk will get. I usually let mine go for about 10 seconds before stopping when cutting conduilt.

What do you use to make the seal on a Quadshot better?

I've done it before using a few different methods but none of them have been quite right.

Now I know someone's going to say "you have to experiment", well, I know that. I'm looking for some new methods I can try by finding out what worked well for you.

So, What do you use to make the seal on a Quadshot better?

Unknown wrote:What do you use to make the seal on a Quadshot better?

I've done it before using a few different methods but none of them have been quite right...

My current production models utilise custom-cut 3mm thick neoprene washers from Clark Rubber combined with Fix-a-Tap tap lubricant.

Or you could go off and experiment on your own and tell us what you've discovered...

random guy wrote:What should I use to cut brass, a hacksaw, a dremel with a normal cutting disk, dremel with a steel cutting disk or something else?

The simplest way to cut brass is to use a pipe cutter, just take the increments slowly, and you will be through the brass tube in no time. This is how the plumbers do it.

What is a good way to perfect my turret seal on my QS? Becuase I want it to be rear loading.

matt.chopper wrote:Xoenz it depends on what you're cutting. The more friction between the disk and material the hotter the disk will get. I usually let mine go for about 10 seconds before stopping when cutting conduilt.

Reinforced disc's will take alot of heat. It's generally variations in thickness of the disc (from cutting at different angles) that will cause it to disintegrate. Also, if a disc gets wet (whether in storage or during use), it's safer to throw it away - they tend to shatter quite unexpectedly when spinning.

And Matt, you should try using cutting wheels for plastic. They may cost a little more, but are perfect for conduit, blaster shells etc - and tend to produce fewer noxious fumes whilst cutting.

ElementGuy wrote:What is a good way to perfect my turret seal on my QS? Becuase I want it to be rear loading.

Silent Scope wrote:

Unknown wrote:What do you use to make the seal on a Quadshot better?

I've done it before using a few different methods but none of them have been quite right...

My current production models utilise custom-cut 3mm thick neoprene washers from Clark Rubber combined with Fix-a-Tap tap lubricant.

Or you could go off and experiment on your own and tell us what you've discovered...

You can also use the little white peice from the plunger head.

Easy fixed.

- Brad

I just got a Unity Power System.

(Yeah, another question about a dodgy hornet, sorry)

The Scout and Titan are great, so was the Hornet. It shot 35 ft flat stock like 10 times, now when I pump it, (It still sounds the same and gets harder to pump every pump, like usual) it still makes the same noise and everything. But when I go to shoot it I pull the trigger and nothing happends. I also tried pressing the buttons on the side but these don't work either.

I figured that this would be a common problem so I'm just wondering if there are any ways to fix this.

Cheers

bulletproofvest wrote:I just got a Unity Power System.

(Yeah, another question about a dodgy hornet, sorry)

The Scout and Titan are great, so was the Hornet. It shot 35 ft flat stock like 10 times, now when I pump it, (It still sounds the same and gets harder to pump every pump, like usual) it still makes the same noise and everything. But when I go to shoot it I pull the trigger and nothing happends. I also tried pressing the buttons on the side but these don't work either.

I figured that this would be a common problem so I'm just wondering if there are any ways to fix this.

Cheers

I'm not sure but when i had a hornet it did pretty much the same thing but i pumped it as fast as i could till it was making a farting noise wile i was pumping it and then it was working. hope that helps!

Yeah I made mine fart heeps by pumping it 30 times in like 5 secs

bulletproofvest wrote:I just got a Unity Power System.

(Yeah, another question about a dodgy hornet, sorry)

The Scout and Titan are great, so was the Hornet. It shot 35 ft flat stock like 10 times, now when I pump it, (It still sounds the same and gets harder to pump every pump, like usual) it still makes the same noise and everything. But when I go to shoot it I pull the trigger and nothing happends. I also tried pressing the buttons on the side but these don't work either.

I figured that this would be a common problem so I'm just wondering if there are any ways to fix this.

Cheers

Typical Hornet, try flushing the tanks out with water, as well as the QEV's (blast button's).
Good Luck!!

Now she's making a hissing noise-tank leak

So should I just sell it for 5 bucks or is there anyway to fix it

Thanks

bulletproofvest wrote:I just got a Unity Power System.

(Yeah, another question about a dodgy hornet, sorry)

The Scout and Titan are great, so was the Hornet. It shot 35 ft flat stock like 10 times, now when I pump it, (It still sounds the same and gets harder to pump every pump, like usual) it still makes the same noise and everything. But when I go to shoot it I pull the trigger and nothing happends. I also tried pressing the buttons on the side but these don't work either.

I figured that this would be a common problem so I'm just wondering if there are any ways to fix this.

Cheers

Did you cock the fround part of the gun? Also removing the AR's makes the gun heaps better.

- Brad

TheBradl3s wrote:

bulletproofvest wrote:I just got a Unity Power System.

(Yeah, another question about a dodgy hornet, sorry)

The Scout and Titan are great, so was the Hornet. It shot 35 ft flat stock like 10 times, now when I pump it, (It still sounds the same and gets harder to pump every pump, like usual) it still makes the same noise and everything. But when I go to shoot it I pull the trigger and nothing happends. I also tried pressing the buttons on the side but these don't work either.

I figured that this would be a common problem so I'm just wondering if there are any ways to fix this.

Cheers

Did you cock the fround part of the gun? Also removing the AR's makes the gun heaps better.

- Brad

Yeah I did
But it has a tank leak

bulletproofvest wrote:
Yeah I did
But it has a tank leak

It's a shame. Hornets are pretty decent when modded, but their reliability is down the crapper Luckily they're a great source of parts, being chock full of useful valves, a pump, tubing, and other bits.

Can parts for a hopper-type clip be sourced from local hardware stores, i.e.: Buninngs - or do we need to improvise or source from overseas ?

-mirsho wrote:Can parts for a hopper-type clip be sourced from local hardware stores, i.e.: Buninngs - or do we need to improvise or source from overseas ?

They can be soruced here, from bunnings, middies, electrical shops. Well at least Brad could, for me.

-mirsho wrote:Can parts for a hopper-type clip be sourced from local hardware stores, i.e.: Buninngs - or do we need to improvise or source from overseas ?

They sure can be according to these two write-ups:

ShootEmUp's guide
Brad's guide

Also, pay attention to this hopper setup if you want it streamline-length compatible.

Searching is also good but I've done that already, I suppose...

Silent Scope wrote:

-mirsho wrote:Can parts for a hopper-type clip be sourced from local hardware stores, i.e.: Buninngs - or do we need to improvise or source from overseas ?

They sure can be according to these two write-ups:

ShootEmUp's guide
Brad's guide

Also, pay attention to this hopper setup if you want it streamline-length compatible.

Searching is also good but I've done that already, I suppose...

Wow thanks heaps, SS. Was thinking of having this setup as an alternative to a speedloader - for when I get lazy in a war.

Be aware, that even the slightest misaligning will complete fk it up. Like mine for example.


Thats why i prefer clip breeches and RSCBS.

Hey guys,

I love my Recons and Raiders and have been operating them without ARs for some time now, and I have an ok powerstock that I switch between them, but I really want more power. To my knowledge, the best way to achieve more power now is to replace the stock internal springs with aftermarket ones, and I believe the Recon, Raider, AT, Longstrike and Deploy all use more-or-less the same internals, meaning the same springs. So, what can I use? Also, where can I get them from (I am Perth-based)?

I understand that there may already be a post similar to this somewhere but the [Google Custom Search] button performs an external search; not very useful.

Thanks,
-Klosteral

Try here:

http://black-tactical.com/store/weapon-accessories-foam-gun-parts-c-69_30

Be aware, with Reverse plunger guns, you're not going over 50 feet without breaking it.

True dont expect much the reverse plunger guns are weak even if you add springs remove ar's.

Is a "Chad" spring a custom made spring from Winterstrike? or is it a LS v2 spring from BT?