The Questions Thread.

A tip when you're buying plastics, ask what they have in the way of offcuts.

Got a couple of sheets of 6 mm polycarb that way, 1440 x 390 for $65 ex GST each, nice stuff with an anti-mar and UV resistant coating.

How many is a couple..? You seem chuffed on that, I'm sitting here thing what the f***, that's expensive! Good advice on off cuts, though, cheers for that.

Who can I buy brass off? Is that place that sells heaps of model stuff, which also sells brass, sorry I can't remember the name. What's the shipping like for brass from the US?

In other words, where do you all get your brass from? I live in Burnie, no hobby shops.

Mozart wrote:How many is a couple..? You seem chuffed on that, I'm sitting here thing what the f***, that's expensive! Good advice on off cuts, though, cheers for that.

Who can I buy brass off? Is that place that sells heaps of model stuff, which also sells brass, sorry I can't remember the name. What's the shipping like for brass from the US?

In other words, where do you all get your brass from? I live in Burnie, no hobby shops.

Go to ulverstone Big boys toys, they have brass, i'm not sure if it fits nerf darts, havent had a chance to check.

It needs to go up in size in 32nds and have a wall thickness of 0.014" I think. Cheers man, I'll check it out.

A couple would be two, although they had more last time I checked. Probably would have bought them, but I didn't have the funds.

Usually they only sell huge sheets, like the 2.4 x 1.2 metre sheets Clunk mentioned. The guy who sold it said that the regular price for that amount of polycarb with the coating was usually double what I paid.

By way of comparison, McMaster-Carr sells a square foot of polycarb for 12.75 USD, and they don't ship internationally (even if they did it'd be a killer). I got my pieces for 11.83 AUD per square foot.

From what I can tell, these kinds of suppliers prefer not to sell in anything other than full sheets because they aren't guaranteed that they can sell the randomly sized offcuts, but if there's someone willing to pay them to cut up a full sheet into whatever shapes and sizes they want then they'll still do it. If there're offcuts and someone (like me) is going to buy them, it's a win-win situation for both of us.

Holy shit, I had no idea polycarbonate was so expensive. Why do we, as Nerfers, use it? Surely there has to be a cheaper alternative. Thanks for all the info, man. If I have some (apparently a lot) of spare funds in the near future, I'll look more into it.

Mozart wrote:Holy shit, I had no idea polycarbonate was so expensive. Why do we, as Nerfers, use it? Surely there has to be a cheaper alternative. Thanks for all the info, man. If I have some (apparently a lot) of spare funds in the near future, I'll look more into it.

I think it's the preferred material of choice for making +bow/ausbow's, and possible spacer's - but don't quote me on that. If you're interested in Shotgun grips for LShot's, there's no real reason you can't make them out of aluminium. It would probably be better structurally as well.

I just wanted a small piece of polycarb to learn how to work with a new material. Definitely wasn't going to pay big dollar's for it, and the 3 stores I contacted didn't have any off-cuts.

We use it because it's relatively easy to machine and is very strong as plastics go. For non-structural components you can try using acrylic or some such, but polycarb is really the best way to go.

If you're designing and making your own stuff though, aluminium can be much better if you know where to go and have the capacity to machine it. I can get 0.25" thick 6061-T651 Al for as low as $19 per square foot ex GST (and shipping for that matter, but that's quite variable depending on your order size). And if you're using Al that thick, I have some serious questions about how much stress you're planning on subjecting your components to.

Sometimes I also wonder why I'm using polycarb, although for different reasons than you.

That's exactly I i wanted some, man. Just wanna play around with it, maybe build a small shell or something for my 4B tank. I don't think I'm keen on paying that much, just to play around with it.

Clunk, do you know where I can get brass? Cheap would be best, hahaa. For that RSCB I was telling you about. I had another look, it's going to fit so well.

Yeah, I guess it's strong enough to hold threads and stuff, too. Thanks, man.

Being a boily, I tend to use metal out of habit. I thought it would be nice to try plastic's just for something different. I can see how it would be preferable to fabricate parts out of. Is there an easy way to identify plastics? I have a large sheet that I have obtained, and I'm not overly sure if it's polycarb, or just perspex. It came as packaging with out new whiteboards at work.

Mate, I'd look for a hobby shop to buy online from. Surely there must be one in Tazzie somewhere. If not, try www.frontlinehobbies.com.au or www.hobbyco.com.au

Not sure how much freight would be, but it's an option if nothing else.

I'm not really sure on any good methods, I mainly work with polycarb and acrylic/perspex but my methods are more comparative, so I'm not sure how much they'll help you. Polycarb tends to scratch easier and is more likely to bend or otherwise deform, while acrylic will chip. Acrylic melts at a lower temp, maybe you could check the melting points and test it that way? When they melt the smell's different as well, from memory acrylic smells sweeter, but it might have been the other way around and I'm not inclined to test it at the moment, it being 0240 at the moment.

238232 wrote:I'm not really sure on any good methods, I mainly work with polycarb and acrylic/perspex but my methods are more comparative, so I'm not sure how much they'll help you. Polycarb tends to scratch easier and is more likely to bend or otherwise deform, while acrylic will chip. Acrylic melts at a lower temp, maybe you could check the melting points and test it that way? When they melt the smell's different as well, from memory acrylic smells sweeter, but it might have been the other way around and I'm not inclined to test it at the moment, it being 0240 at the moment.

Thanks, I'll see what I can work out.

Mozart wrote:Holy shit, I had no idea polycarbonate was so expensive. Why do we, as Nerfers, use it? Surely there has to be a cheaper alternative. Thanks for all the info, man. If I have some (apparently a lot) of spare funds in the near future, I'll look more into it.

Try the burnie tip shop, i got 1 square ft of it there for $2

Is petg a good springer barrel or am I better off with some 16mm Aussie Duct?

ElementGuy wrote:Is petg a good springer barrel or am I better off with some 16mm Aussie Duct?

Direct quote from Phuonguyen's FAQ section:

Why are different barrels needed for Airguns or Springers?

For airguns, where the majority of the guns are based off range and high exit velocities, the length of the barrel is very important as it directly contributes to the accuracy of the gun. Most airgun barrels are a minimum of 30cm which is alot of friction along the inside of the barrel, this is why a slight loose or perfect fit is desired.

For springers with a large plunger volume such as Longshots, the same principle applies because of the large burst of air is so similar to that of an airgun. The NF and stormfire count as large volume although they tend to work better with a relatively short, but tight barrel - 17/32" brass is idea with a barrel length of 1.25-1.75 of the stock dart length.

For springer with a relatively small plunger volume, such as all reverse plunger guns (yes the output volume is small), the minimum ammount of friction is wanted though maintaining the maximum pressure behind the dart. That's why a perfect fit is desirable.

That still doesn't state whether or not I shoud be using petg for my QS or 16mm conduit.

What type of darts are you using?

For my TS I use Petg and blue foam but 16mm conduit works fine but can be a hassle to load and does not accept 'fat' headed snap caps.

If your using streamlines 16mm is the only way to go, Petg is way too loose.

I'm using blue foam, but I read somewhere that 16mm conduit is a perfect springer fit on it so I'm undecieded.

I also use cover caps from my local bunnings that fit perfectly inside the 16mm conduit.

They are both very good with blue foam but I prefer Petg - just personal preference.

ElementGuy wrote:That still doesn't state whether or not I shoud be using petg for my QS or 16mm conduit.

How doesn't this bit answer your question:

Most airgun barrels are a minimum of 30cm which is alot of friction along the inside of the barrel, this is why a slight loose or perfect fit is desired.
For springers with a large plunger volume such as Longshots, the same principle applies because of the large burst of air is so similar to that of an airgun.

If you're using the larger caps, they won't fit in petg.

clunk07 wrote:
If you're using the larger caps, they won't fit in petg.

Uhhh, yes they will...

Unknown wrote:

clunk07 wrote:
If you're using the larger caps, they won't fit in petg.

Uhhh, yes they will...

Okay, yes they will fit if you jam them in. I just test-fired one from my titan, and it didn't exit the 60cm barrel - as opposed to 400 feet with the smaller snap caps. So, yeh, they fit, but are fukn useless

Are we talking about the same thing?

I'm talking about the dart hire darts with larger snap caps, when used in my SB they hit well over 120ft and in my singled TS nearly 110ft.

Is your barrel bent?

I have seen his SB and it is capable of pulling those ranges. The same as his Triple Shot. Fat caps should work alright. It'just that there's a bit of friction on it = less velocity.

littlebro05 wrote:I have seen his SB and it is capable of pulling those ranges. The same as his Triple Shot. Fat caps should work alright. It'just that there's a bit of friction on it = less velocity.

I'm reaching the same range with my SB. Maybe there's a bit of diameter variation in my petg and snap caps. My barrel is definitely not bent, 2ft petg nested in conduit.

I've tried a couple other pieces of petg, and still no success. Maybe it's the caps then.

Im not too sure if this belongs in this thread but its really bugging me. Over a month ago, i bought and paid for some nerf clips from BoltAction and i've been Pm'ing him because nothing has arrived but all the messages go straight to outbox. I need to reach him. What can i do?

Alrighty.

Bought an ipad 2 today and a scatter blast.


Problems with the scatter blast. The darts just arn't ejecting. I think that they might be a leak.

ANy suggestions, maybe i'm doing it wrong.

Xoenz wrote:Alrighty.

Bought an ipad 2 today and a scatter blast.


Problems with the scatter blast. The darts just arn't ejecting. I think that they might be a leak.

ANy suggestions, maybe i'm doing it wrong.

Press the white button, so that the orange button is flush with the blue foam.



And who cares about the iPad 2.

phuonguyen wrote:

Xoenz wrote:Alrighty.

Bought an ipad 2 today and a scatter blast.


Problems with the scatter blast. The darts just arn't ejecting. I think that they might be a leak.

ANy suggestions, maybe i'm doing it wrong.

Press the white button, so that the orange button is flush with the blue foam.



And who cares about the iPad 2.

Still does not work. I hear the air coming out but the darts still just sitting in there laughing at me.

At the moment, mine only works with the darts that came with it. Are you using Nerf darts?

Mine must have a bit of evil bunny magic.
It works flawlessly with all darts.

The fact that mine only works with Lanard darts is annoying. Did you remove the pegs or anything @unknown

**EDIT**

I just found out that it works well with stock nerf sucker darts, not the stock lanard darts, LOL!

Thanks everyone for your help!

Echoes wrote:The fact that mine only works with Lanard darts is annoying. Did you remove the pegs or anything @unknown

Nope, just stock.

How can I polish the inside of brass tube? For smoother breech operation.