The Questions Thread.

Okay, so I'm looking for stampede voltage upgrade parts.

I found what I thought I needed but then I read the reviews...

Some reviews said 'These are really good PCB batteries' and others (on the same product) said 'If your looking for batteries without PCB these
are very good'.

So I'm now very confused.


I hate to ask to be spoon fed, but could someone please post some links for batteries and chargers they know work?
(I'm looking to get 16.8v)

Check out hobby shops, for RC car batteries.

Unknown wrote:Okay, so I'm looking for stampede voltage upgrade parts.

I found what I thought I needed but then I read the reviews...

Some reviews said 'These are really good PCB batteries' and others (on the same product) said 'If your looking for batteries without PCB these
are very good'.

So I'm now very confused.


I hate to ask to be spoon fed, but could someone please post some links for batteries and chargers they know work?
(I'm looking to get 16.8v)

SLA batteries are good for this mod, and you can find them at RC/hobby stores.

If you'd prefer to use unprotected 14500's, check here:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultra-fire-14500-3-6v-900mah-2pack-975

and a charger:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-3-6-3-7v-battery-charger-1251

Note: the batteries listed have no PCB, which is what you require for Nerf mods.
Personally, I haven't used SLA's, but I know a few guys that have. I find that the 14500's deliver
enough punch for my requirements, and it's not hard to change batteries during a break at a war. At that price, it doesn't hurt to have a few of them lying around either.

Just remember to do a little research on charging non-PCB batt's. They can overcharge, and may explode (unlikely, but possible). I monitor my batt's while they charge, and test with a DMM to ensure they don't go past 4.2 volts.

Cheers,

ALso i' like to add, do not use those ultrafires till they are at 2.75v, always have them over 3v.

Last night I whiteness 3 of those exact batteries reaching 2.5v and overheating so much that the blue skin surrounding it melted and shrunk. DO not continue to use them after they have been discharged. A significant loss for me :-(

So I must make sure they are charged fully before using them or else they melt?

These things are starting to sound very dangerous...

LOL.

Dont worry they are safe, the casing doesn't melt, nor will it explode.

Just, if you use them too much, thus their voltage decreases to a certain point, so that they are considered dead.


Simply put, if you had a normal alkaline AA battery, you use it up till its capacity and voltage goes below 1v, it cannot be used anymore.

Same goes with the 14500s, if you use it up and its voltage decreases to under 2.75v, it will become very warm, not enough to hurt you, and the plastic peeling will peel off the casing, which indicates that the battery can not be charged or used again.

To avoid this, try charging your batteries and checking their voltage with a multimeter after using them.

Pictures of the peeled cases, opposed to the normal ones.

So I'll be fine as long as I keep them charged?

And is this all I need to do for a 9v mod on a barricade? (The wiring)



(Excuse terrible picture)

Unknown wrote:So I'll be fine as long as I keep them charged?

And is this all I need to do for a 9v mod on a barricade? (The wiring)

(Excuse terrible picture)

Err yeh, keep them charged over 3v that is.

I have noticed that the Maverick has the ability to hold a number of different types of darts. What do you find to work the best?

I use the standard suction darts.

I use bluefoam stefans.

Blue foam snap caps.

I've heard a lot about Blue-foam. Does it get much more distance and/or accuracy in the maverick than a suction or streamline?

Blue foam snap caps.

Not exactly, it is a lot denser than stock foam so it lasts longer, but the range and accuracy all depend on how high powered you gun is, how heavy your weight is, and how well your glue dome or snap cap is placed. Also I wouldn't really recommend stefans in your mav unless it is modded as it is renowned for it's low ranges.

For the time being, If you don't want to modify your Maverick or make your own darts just yet, streamline darts are the best. They are however, very inaccurate. Can be bought in packets of 16 and 36 at Big W or K-mart.

Using stock darts in a stock maverick I'd say whistler dart just because they're more accurate than streamlines and makes a cool whistling sound

melbnerf619 wrote:Using stock darts in a stock maverick I'd say whistler dart just because they're more accurate than streamlines and makes a cool whistling sound

+1. I don't care about the whistling sound, but I've noticed that they work better than streamlines in a completely stock setup.

Unknown wrote:So I'll be fine as long as I keep them charged?

And is this all I need to do for a 9v mod on a barricade? (The wiring)



(Excuse terrible picture)

I'm pretty sure that won't work if you're only hooking up a single battery (9v). Solder wire/battery leads to the positive and negative poles in the middle of the battery case. Solder hook-up wire from positive to negative poles on the top and bottom battery spacing. Refer to my tutorial to see what I mean.

Hope it works.

As for the 14500's melting, that's a new one to me. I presume they were being pushed to their limit/being drained of every last bit. General rule of thumb, 14500's won't trickle down. They either work, or they won't. If they work, then stop, then work again etc, then you need to charge them. Don't muck around and try to milk out that last bit of current. And as for them not melting/exploding, however unlikely, it is possible. These batteries need to be treated with a little bit of respect, and you'll be fine.

Drados wrote:I've heard a lot about Blue-foam. Does it get much more distance and/or accuracy in the maverick than a suction or streamline?

Mate, check here:

http://www.oznerf.com/t3014-fs-silicone-tip-dart-video-make-50-darts-in-338-never-spend-hours-on-it-again

For $5 (plus postage I assume) you can get a sample kit from Inf0rm3r that will enable you to make 15 blue foam darts, all you'll need is a hot glue gun, which are cheaply purchased from bunnings/$2 shops etc. It's a pretty inexpensive way to discover how good blue foam darts are.


Cheers,

238232 wrote:

melbnerf619 wrote:Using stock darts in a stock maverick I'd say whistler dart just because they're more accurate than streamlines and makes a cool whistling sound

+1. I don't care about the whistling sound, but I've noticed that they work better than streamlines in a completely stock setup.

Even in a low modified Maverick (AR removal, basic mods like that) whistlers/taggers will still work the best.

even in higher power guns whistlers are accurate. I used to mussle load them into my trippleshot and they worked a treat.

Psykka wrote:even in higher power guns whistlers are accurate. I used to mussle load them into my trippleshot and they worked a treat.

Muzzle*.. but that's just me being an English teacher.

Just to add on to psykka's point, yeah with a 20mm conduit in my singled TS, they vacuum loaded and shot about 24m. But yeah works better that streamlines. With streamlines, they are acting weird even with just AR-ed reverse plungers.

2120 wrote:

Psykka wrote:even in higher power guns whistlers are accurate. I used to mussle load them into my trippleshot and they worked a treat.

Muzzle*.. but that's just me being an English teacher.

Just to add on to psykka's point, yeah with a 20mm conduit in my singled TS, they vacuum loaded and shot about 24m. But yeah works better that streamlines. With streamlines, they are acting weird even with just AR-ed reverse plungers.

I knew it was wrong. I just couldn't think of how to spell it right... seems so obvious now. I really should redownload my in browser spellchecker.

Hey, I'm buying off fishpond and was wondering if anyone here had a voucher code they could vouch for. tee hee. Yeh, I saw I think "CUZFISH" but this and other ones I found on google don't work. Thanks for any help.

So, I've had a longshot for like 2 years but I haven't been able to figure out how to get the handle on the front gun. Can anyone help me?

Place it in the provided slot, then push forward HARD. Bam.

2 Years eh? Just push it really hard! Or if you worried you will break it, open up the Front Gun and place it in.

I remember spending hours trying to get it in... they really should make it easier.

If they made it easier, it wouldn't stay in, lol. Yeah, you just have to really force it in. Like, extremely hard. That's what she said.

Alright, well I've got a problem, and I need some Australian help to fix it. The problem: My lousy Maverick. The problem with it is that whenever I try to turn the barrel with the trigger, it's really heavy. Like a car from the 80's. Trying to turn that thing requires a lot of hard and slow force, even though I'm only pulling a trigger. And, whenever I try to shoot a dart, all I get is a load dry-fire crack sound and a poof of air coming from the side. I think the problem might be that the barrel (somehow) doesn't fit into the shell properly. So dig into your brains and help me!

Merged into Questions Thread. - Brad

Pics would be great.

But just a few guesses: alignment issues, something's been misplaced or your barrel is the last one made on a Friday afternoon in a China.

Is your barrel (the male part) locked into position in the shell? because if it isn't it means that when you prime it you are pulling the entire plunger system back and when you pull the trigger the whole thing shoots forward. For your turret, maybe the rotation mec died some how? Sorry can't help you much there.

Pics would help, as would background. Is it stock? What mods have been done, if any?

It does sound like a mech-alignment issue, or the two arms which hold the barrel in place may not be located in the shell properly.

@2120 Haha Friday afternoon in china, good one.

@ElementGuy Yes the plunger tube (the, err, umm, male part) is in position and it doesn't move back when the slide is pulled, but the problem is probably with the turret being to big to fit inside the shell. When I pulled out the turret to remove the AR's I might have done something to the screw places that make them not fit in properly. When you look at the turret, you can see that the back part (not the loading side) is bent in different places.

@clunk207, I've done many mods to it before, but since I'm a contract modder, I don't think it was a mistake I made. I did the ARR mod, the rotating mechanism strengthening mod, adn the penny and stronger spring mods.

If you 'strengthened' the rotating mechanism with epoxy putty, or anything really, you've probably made it too big to fit where it goes, that's why it's a lit of effort to pull the trigger, which rotates the turret.

This could have been in the questions thread..

Cody

Yeh, sounds like you've got some alignment issues from re-assembling the turret.