The Questions Thread.

clunk07 wrote:There could be a few problems with the breech:

First, you should still get better ranges than that with the stock spring. How's the plunger seal?

Secondly, using streamline's is only going to add to your problems. Going to be fairly difficult to gauge range with the dart's fish-tailing all over the place.


Cheers,

I believe the seal is good. If i block the barrel and release the gun it very slowly lets the plunger down. i tried with a stefan i made from an old streamline, made it worse.. heh.. I will have to try buy some darts next Sunday at the war, and hope it works.

Biggest issue i can think of is that the dart is not sealing in the barrel well enough and a majority of the air is escaping down the sides of the dart.

What size is your barrel?

I can't really imagine the air escaping past the dart if you've used a nominal barrel size.

Cheers,

I went with a 9/16" barrel. Darts fit but there is a tiny amount of space.
Actually, i might try and put a better tightening ring in the brass.

Edit: Ok, so i put some tighter rings on the barrel and used a glue tipped streamline. A little better. Getting a bit more power from it now. As you said streamlines just fish tail out but with a bit more power now. Still far from the ball buster i thought a BBLS would be.

It's got to be an issue with your darts then.

If you say the seal is good, then there's nothing else there can be. Unless, the barrel isn't clean, which is a 5 minute fix with some sandpaper, screwdriver and brasso.

None of my LShot's have tightening rings in the barrels...

Cheers,

Yeah I'm thinking there must be something in the barrel that is catching on the dart. With a good seal and that spring combo, you should be scared to get hit by a dart from it.

Issues diagnosis procedure. Chamber dart, close breech, seal lips around barrel, blow. Then figure out where the air is leaking from.

Other than that it's some obstruction

Hey guys,

I've bought a longstrike (No complainers or whingers) anyway and before i bought it i have read many writeups and watched many videos on how to remove the AR, but the one thing i dont understand is that some people remove just the peg sorta thing, so the tube (pluger?)has a smaller circle with a hole and some people just drill out the whole thing out, so can someone tell me what the correct method to remove the AR of the Longstrike. Thanks in advance.

Just removing the peg is useless, you're trying to allow more air through so you want take everything out until the tube is clear of any blockages.

A drill will do the job.

New Question:

Being new to Nerf and reading A LOT about everything. Seems I would like to get my hands on a 4B.
Whats the availability and price like on these now that they are discontinued?

They are very rare these days, worth about $70+ now days.

Keats wrote:New Question:

Being new to Nerf and reading A LOT about everything. Seems I would like to get my hands on a 4B.
Whats the availability and price like on these now that they are discontinued?

4b's are usually around $60-$90 depending on the seller.
I reckon they are totally worth it though.

-James

Keats wrote:New Question:

Being new to Nerf and reading A LOT about everything. Seems I would like to get my hands on a 4B.
Whats the availability and price like on these now that they are discontinued?

Some toy warehouses stock them, the one near me have at least 50 of them for 40 each

evozn wrote:

Keats wrote:New Question:

Being new to Nerf and reading A LOT about everything. Seems I would like to get my hands on a 4B.
Whats the availability and price like on these now that they are discontinued?

Some toy warehouses stock them, the one near me have at least 50 of them for 40 each

Are you serious? Man it would be great if you told me where that place was. PM me

evozn wrote:

Keats wrote:New Question:

Being new to Nerf and reading A LOT about everything. Seems I would like to get my hands on a 4B.
Whats the availability and price like on these now that they are discontinued?

Some toy warehouses stock them, the one near me have at least 50 of them for 40 each

WHAT LINK NAO PL0X

You serious? I wants me one!

Same

are you sure they are not ultimate missile blasts?

Yeah if they 're bbbbs then pm me

look, that was last time I went there, I will be going again in a few days, and I'll check what they got and tell yous, but from memory, shotblast 40, bbbb 40 and A LOT of strike slingshots 15

evozn wrote:look, that was last time I went there, I will be going again in a few days, and I'll check what they got and tell yous, but from memory, shotblast 40, bbbb 40 and A LOT of strike slingshots 15

But what was the place called?

something toy warehouse

Ok what Suburb?

haha - let it go guys. He'll tell you when he knows... that's if he doesn't purchase them all himself - I know I would!!

Cheers,

Brunius wrote:WHAT LINK NAO PL0X

You serious? I wants me one!

Really? Is English your second language?

whichgrep wrote:

Brunius wrote:WHAT LINK NAO PL0X

You serious? I wants me one!

Really? Is English your second language?

I think so!

Anyone else with a BBUMB coupler mod find it starts lacking after a while? Mine has started firing with way less power then it originally did. Any ideas for what to check?

It may be your pump, otherwise, re-epoxying the joints and checking airtightness may be a good idea.

Swatsonia wrote:It may be your pump, otherwise, re-epoxying the joints and checking airtightness may be a good idea.

so if its the pump should i put fabric tape on again and re lube it? Or maybe a new o-ring?

I've been thinking ill take the coupler off and re-glue it as well.

Why not both? I have no idea what fabric tape is, Etape/teflon tape is the norm.

Swatsonia wrote:Why not both? I have no idea what fabric tape is, Etape/teflon tape is the norm.

yeah, teflon tape is what i meant haha.

Since CPVC is unavalible in Australia, I was wondering what I could use to make a singled longshot out of, I have hear of UPVC is that the same thing.

Thanks
From Dan

Yes, my good man. 16mm UPVC is what you want which is sourced from electrical distributors like Middy's or Go Electrical. Be sure to bring with you a streamline to test out the various batches as conduit is made at quite large tolerances.

SOme places may stock CPVC, eg: http://www.envirofire.com.au/default.asp?iId=JMKDL

Guys... What is "AR"?

AR stands for air restricter.

UtahR wrote:SOme places may stock CPVC, eg: http://www.envirofire.com.au/default.asp?iId=JMKDL

I read through the catalogs provided on that site. None of the pipe sizes would help dandaldaks in his search to find the typical 1/2" CPVC used as barrel material.

But there were other interesting tidbits of info I found useful for my own curiosity, namely the 35mm ID sizing...